How To Thicken Up A Red Robin - [] All Five Oceans

Pinching out the top shoots will make the smaller ones send out side shoots and thicken up. Keeping those cut once they exceed your desired width will add to the bushiness.

Contents

- 0.0.1 How do you prune a leggy Red Robin?

1 How do you shape Red Robin?
2 Should I prune my Red Robin?
- - 2.0.1 Why is my Red Robin dying?
3 How hard can I cut back Red Robin?
4 How tall do Photinia Red Robins get?
5 Is Photinia Red Robin poisonous?
6 How do you treat Photinia red robin black spots on leaves?
- 6.1 How leggy is too leggy?
7 Can you bury leggy stems?
8 How do you revive a Photinia?
9 Why do the leaves keep falling off my red robin?
- - 9.0.1 Can I take a cutting from a Photinia?
10 Why are the leaves on my red robin plant drooping?

How do you prune a leggy Red Robin?

Caring for older plants – Photinias are long-lived plants that can grow quite large over time. If your photinia has become overgrown or outgrown its space, you can renovate it by cutting back hard to a low framework, then thinning out any congested shoots as they grow back. You should renovate deciduous forms in winter, and evergreens in spring. See our, Photinias require minimal pruning, but will benefit from the occasional trim in spring or summer to promote dense growth and maintain a good overall shape. Vigorous species can be pruned more regularly to keep them within bounds. Avoid trimming after mid-August, as regrowth would be vulnerable to autumn frosts. For general advice on pruning evergreen photinias, see our guide to, Tips on pruning :

This is a vigorous cultivar and can grow up to 30cm (1ft) in a year, so keep it under control and encourage bright young leaves by shortening stems by up to 15cm (6in), cutting just above an outward-facing bud When grown as a hedge, remove the tips of young shoots to encourage the bright red leafy re-growth. It can be trimmed up to three times a year Ideally prune with secateurs rather than a hedgetrimmer, to avoid slicing through the leaves. Make your cuts just above a leaf joint

For advice on pruning deciduous photinias, such as and, see our, Photinias are generally healthy and trouble-free when grown in good conditions. However, cold, exposed or damp locations may lead to the following:

or damage â€” late frosts and cold winds may shrivel or kill soft new shoots Leaf spot â€” purple-brown spotting on foliage is a sign the plant is under stress, often due to cold, wet winters. Recently planted are particularly prone, as they take longer to than younger plants Yellowing leaves due to on â€” some species, including, need neutral or acidic soil

Any damaged foliage will fall away naturally in spring or early summer, sometimes with heavy leaf loss. These are usually soon replaced, but plants may become thinner in the centre. To restore, cut back some of the stems in early May/June to encourage younger, more leafy shoots. To avoid these problems:

Choose a warm, sheltered location, rather than exposed or frost-prone sites Plant, which should establish more quickly Position against a sunny for extra shelter, especially in colder regions Dig in before planting to aid drainage, especially if your ground is Choose photinia species that will thrive in your soil, particularly if you have, or grow them in containers. Check plant labels carefully before buying, and see our guide to

How do you shape Red Robin?

Download Article Download Article The red robin ( photinia x fraseri ) shrub is best known for its bright red leaves that fade to bronze and then green. Red robins are easy to maintain and can withstand aggressive pruning for size or shape. Stick to more careful hand pruning to support flowering, if desired, or to further encourage the telltale red foliage.

1 Use clean pruning shears for general maintenance pruning. A good pair of one-handed pruning shears will cut through red robin branches with ease. While hedge clippers are a quicker option for large-scale trimming and shaping, hand pruners offer convenience and precision for trimming off damaged areas, removing spotted leaves, and cutting wayward branches.
- While the red robin isn’t particularly prone to disease, it’s a good idea to sanitize your shears regularly to reduce the risk of plant-to-plant disease transmission:
  - After pruning one red robin, rinse any dirt off the shears with water, then wipe down the pruners with rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol, 70% minimum).
  - After each pruning session, use dish soap and water to clean and rinse the pruners, soak them in a solution of 4 fl oz (120 ml) of chlorine bleach and 32 fl oz (950 ml) of water for 30 minutes, then rinse the shears and let them air dry.
2 Make an angled cut just above a new shoot or bud on the branch. Hold the branch steady with your free hand, about 6 in (15 cm) above the cutting point. Cut through the branch about 1 ⁄ 3 in (0.85 cm) above an existing shoot or bud to promote new growth. Make the cut at approximately a 45-degree angle.
- Cutting at an angle instead of straight across also promotes new growth.
- If you want to completely remove an entire branch, make your cut about 1 ⁄ 3 in (0.85 cm) above where the branch attaches to the main stem. Be careful not to damage the stem.
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3 Cut away foliage with “leaf spot” as soon as you see it. If you see dark red or brown spots on any leaves, snip the branch off at a bud or shoot below the affected area as soon as you can, especially during the growing season. While “leaf spot” is often more of a cosmetic issue than a threat to the red robin’s health, spotted leaves can fall off and leave significant bare spots in some cases.
- With quick pruning, the areas that had leaf spot are likely to be replaced with healthy foliage fairly rapidly, at least during the growing season.
- Frequent cases of leaf spot may mean that the red robin is planted in an area that is too damp, too cold, too shady, or some combination of these. Transplanting the red robin to a different spot may be your best option.
4 Snip away broken or dead branches at any time during the year. Since red robins are robust plants that can handle pretty much any type of pruning, general cleanup pruning can be done whenever you choose. Use your pruning shears to snip off broken branches, cutting just above a new bud or shoot when possible. Remove dead branches near the stem.
- If you prune anytime between the start of the growing season and 1-2 months before it ends, new growth will likely occur at the pruning site. Otherwise, expect new growth to begin the following season.
5 Stick to maintenance pruning until the plant is 3 years old. Red robins grow relatively slowly early on, so your specimen is unlikely to get out of hand during these early years. Delaying any significant pruning allows the red robin to get well established; after that, it can stand up to pretty much any kind of pruning!
- If you’re not sure how old a red robin is, avoid pruning it until it’s roughly 4 ft (1.2 m) tall and equally wide. This is based on the recommendations that you shouldn’t prune a red robin by more than 50% in size, and also shouldn’t prune it down below 2 ft (61 cm) in height and width.

1 Prune to spur more red foliage about a month into the growing season. Over the span of several weeks, the bright red leaves that appear at the start of the growing season will fade to bronze and then green. Once a significant portion of the foliage has faded to bronze, use pruning shears to cut back the branches by up to 6 in (15 cm), snipping just above new shoots or buds.
- For the best results, use the maintenance pruning technique with hand shears. Even if you use hedge clippers and make less precise cuts, though, you’ll still spur additional red foliage with timely pruning.
- In the UK, for example, the red robin’s growing season runs from about late March to late September. In this case, expect the first wave of red foliage to fade during mid-to-late April. Do your first pruning at this time to encourage more red leaves.
2 Delay your first seasonal pruning until after the flowers wilt, if desired. Red robins produce small white flowers that look pretty but don’t smell all that great, so ample flowering may not be your priority. If you do want to encourage flowering, hold off on your first pruning of the growing season, delaying it by about 4-6 weeks.
- If the growing season begins in late March, the flowers may not begin to fade until late May or early June. Instead of pruning to encourage red foliage in late April, then, wait about another month if you want both more red foliage now and more flowering next growing season.
3 Do 1-2 more foliage prunings, but not during the season’s last 4-6 weeks. By spacing out several prunings, you can maintain an abundant supply of red foliage throughout the growing season. However, don’t prune for foliage during the last 4-6 weeks of the growing season, especially in a cold climate, since the new growth will likely be damaged by frost.
- If, for example, the red robin growing season is late March to late September where you live, you might prune to encourage red foliage in late April, mid-June, and early August. If you want to encourage flowering as well, move the first pruning back another month or so and do only 1 additional pruning for foliage.

1 Use manual or electric hedge clippers to make shaping much quicker. While hand-pruning with shears is the best option for foliage and flowering, the red robin is rugged and handles trimming with manual or electric clippers quite well. Hedge clippers are the obvious choice if you’re shaping several red robins into a continuous hedge, for instance, and also work well for shaping a single bush.
- So long as you don’t reduce its overall size by more than 50%, it’s extremely difficult to permanently damage or kill a red robin through pruning or clipping.
- Wear eye protection and thick gloves if you’re using electric hedge clippers, and follow all the safety precautions. Never put your fingers near the blades while the clippers are plugged in or the battery is engaged!
2 Cut right through the branches wherever it suits your shaping goals. If you want a row of squared-off hedges, for example, run your electric hedge clippers right along the tops of the red robins, cutting them straight and flat. Don’t worry about cutting below new buds or shoots; red robins recover well regardless and new red foliage will emerge fairly quickly.
- Red robins are great for shaping precisely because they’re so forgiving when it comes to pruning. Go ahead and try shaping a single red robin into a cone, sphere, square, or even more complex and creative shapes!
3 Shape at the height of the growing season for the quickest recovery. If you wait until about 4-6 weeks after the start of the growing season—for example, early May if the season starts in late March—new red foliage will emerge more quickly after pruning for shape.
- If you want to encourage flowering the following season, wait until the current flowers start to wilt before pruning for shape.

1 Schedule the “hard pruning” about 4-6 weeks into the growing season. A hard pruning is basically a major haircut for shrubs. Red robins respond well to hard pruning throughout the growing season, but respond best when the “haircut” occurs during the most aggressive period of growth. This usually happens about 4-6 weeks after the start of the growing season—for instance, late April or early May if the season starts in late March.
2 Prune down the shrub by up to 50%, but leave it at least 2 ft (61 cm) tall. Red Robins can reach about 13 ft (4.0 m) in height, which means that you can give a fully-grown shrub a hard pruning down to about 6.5 ft (2.0 m). That said, if the shrub is already smaller than 4 ft (1.2 m) in height, don’t cut it down to below 2 ft (61 cm).
- Your red robin may still recover if you give it a more severe hard pruning than these guidelines suggest, but don’t bet on it.
3 Use hedge clippers or pruning shears for hard pruning. Hedge clippers are usually the quickest and easiest option here, since you can simply cut through the branches for shaping however you like. If you prefer using pruning shears, go ahead and cut back each branch right above a new shoot or bud in order to better stimulate new foliage growth.
4 Feed the plant with a general fertilizer after a hard pruning. While a red robin bounces back well from pretty much any kind of pruning, it never hurts to give it a good feeding afterward. Apply a general-purpose dry fertilizer to the soil surrounding the main stem, according to the product instructions.
- After fertilizing, add enough water to moisten the soil, but don’t feel like you need to completely soak it—red robins require little watering after their first year.

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Pruning shears
Hedge clippers
Gloves
Eye protection
Rubbing alcohol
Chlorine bleach
General fertilizer

Left unpruned, a red robin will grow about 1 ft (30 cm) in height and width per year.
Invest in a good pair of pruning shears from your local garden center—good shears are easier to use and easier on your hands!

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Should I prune my Red Robin?

What Is Photinia Red Robin? – A Red Robin plant is an evergreen shrub with various scarlet leaves amongst green ones, depending on the plant. These shrubs can grow at a rate of approximately 30cm per year if they are healthy and fully established. Therefore, pruning is a must with the Red Robin shrub, as this can help keep it looking good and feeling healthy.

Why is my Red Robin dying?

Maria Wardell – 3 years ago 4 I have some mature red robin shrubs at the front of my house. They must be at least 10 years old and were in really poor health when I moved in 5 years ago. I have removed lots of branches and they has been lots of regrowrh and they look reasonable compared to my neighbours olants which are mostly yellow leaves and very sick looking.

I do water and feed them (miracle grow) ana whilst they grow they still do not look really healthy and the leaves often grow in odd shapes. Any ideas? Gv Gretchen von Gustlin 3 years ago Red Robin or also known as Red Tipped Photinia, usually requires very little water and no fertilizer after it is established.

I certainly would avoid using one high in nitrogen such as Miracle Grow. The Red Robin is susceptible to fungus both on the leaves and in the roots. The curling of the leaves can be a telltale sign of root fungus, if so, probably from over watering. It can also be a leaf fungus.

Take a spade and dig around the roots a bit, if you see white attached to the roots you have a fungus.
Consult a professional as it probably has infected other plants/trees.
If not it is on the leaves and a copper based fungicide used according to directions will help with the leaf curl.
Remember to keep the area under the shrubs relatively clean of fallen leaves while you eradicate the fungus, otherwise the fungus on the fallen leaves will just re-infect the plant.

It could be a good time to do a hard cut back on the shrub, therefore removing many of the infected leaves. Just remember to sterilize your tools afterwards. Good luck. DM Denise Major 3 years ago Gretchen thank you for your detailed answer a friend has asked me about a mature one growing in her front garden.

It started to appear to be dieing back, so she watered to loads before the heat we have just had. Obviously the worst thing to do. I will advise her and help to try and put things right. MK Minseok KIM 3 years ago Hello, I’m currently conducting survey on gardening tools. The question is, ‘as a customer, which tools would you prefer to buy and not’? Also, as a reward, $30 will be given to random three people.

I will really appreciate your feedback ^^ https://forms.gle/k3umX61nCx9QyaGH7 Thank you KH Kevin Howard 3 years ago Hello! I also grow robins at home. However, I have not encountered such problems before. Perhaps you need to read some gardening guides for example here https://dutch-bulbs.com/ ? This might help you.

How hard can I cut back Red Robin?

HOW AND WHEN TO PRUNE RED ROBINS – The frequency of pruning depends on the shape and size you want the plant to grow to. Without pruning, Red Robin will grow quite happily and form a bush sized about 4m / 13ft high and wide after seven years or so. For those of you who prefer a small shrub then pruning can be done any time between March and mid July.

We wouldn’t advise pruning after late July because the young shoots which appear after pruning may well be soft and easily damaged by early frosts.
We would not prune these shrubs until they reach 3 or more years old.
Our suggested routine would be an annual prune in early to mid June when the flowers are dead or dying down.

If you prune at this time of year you will be likely to have flowers again the next year. June flowers on a Red Robin plant Conventional wisdom says to prune individual stems just above a leaf node. In our experience though no special techniques are necessary. In fact we have taken a hedge trimmer to prune ours without any bad effects at all.

Whatever method you use, it seems the plant sprouts healthy new red shoots. A commonly asked question is how far back can I prune an overgrown Red Robin ? They can be cut cut back very severely and in our experience they always come back. An out of control plant can be pruned back to 60cm / 2ft high. The best time to do this type of drastic pruning is in May time when the plant is growing strongly.

If you have any cut flowers in the house when you prune your Red Robin, use the red leaves as foliage in the plant arrangement. It looks lovely.

How do you prune leggy?

Can You Trim Leggy Plants? – What if you’ve allowed a plant to become excessively leggy? Even when you notice a plant getting leggy, you might not feel entirely confident cutting it back. Will cutting the plant harm it? Is it okay to trim a leggy plant? The good news is the answer is yes.

You can trim a leggy plant back, and the plant can actually grow stronger after the trimming. Yearly cutting can also encourage the plant to send out brand new shoots, creating a beautifully thick and lush plant. Trimming, pinching, and pruning are all helpful activities for eliminating leggy growth. Start by pruning back the longest stem.

You can cut right above the uppermost growth node, which should encourage the plant to create new growth at the side of the stem rather than continuously upward at the top. Remember to sterilize your cutting tool before starting the trim to discourage the spread of disease.

How do you prune overgrown Photinia?

Photinia Rejuvenation – Rejuvenate red tip photinia when the shrub doesn’t color up as it should or when it looks overgrown, congested, or straggly with dead areas in the center. The easiest method of photinia rejuvenation is to cut back the entire shrub at one time.

Photinia tolerates cutting back to about 6 inches (15 cm.) above the ground.
The problem with this type of pruning is that it leaves a gap and ugly stump in the landscape.
You can try hiding it with tall annuals, but if it bothers you, there is another method that isn’t as extreme.
The second way to rejuvenate red tip photinia takes three or four years, but the shrub continues to fill its place in the landscape as it regrows.

Each year, cut out one-half to one-third of the stems to about 6 inches (15 cm.) above the ground. Begin with the oldest and largest stems and then cut the weak and misshapen ones. After three or four years, the shrub will be completely rejuvenated. You can continue this method of pruning after the shrub is completely rejuvenated to keep it looking fresh.

How quickly does Red Robin grow?

It has an average growth rate of 30cm per annum, and can easily be maintained up to a height of 4m – either trim to a formal hedge shape in spring or summer or leave informal, just with a little trim as and when it’s needed.

How tall does red robin grow?

General Description Of The Plant – This hedge plant is quite dense and medium-sized in appearance. A fully grown red robin tree can easily be managed to 4 feet in height with regular maintenance However, when it is used as a specimen tree, it can become as high as 6 metres.

It takes the plant about 10 to 20 years to reach its full height.
Its full-spread ranges from 2.5 to 4 metres.
Its full-spread ranges from 2.5 to 4 metres.
The leaves of this shrub are its most unique features.
When a new leaf unfurls, it has a bright, glossy red colour, but as it matures, it gradually changes into dark green.

Pruning the tips of the shoots keeps the plant stimulated to produce new leaves annually. The plant also produces sparse, creamy-white flowers, which give way to the leaves. Some people find these flowers quite unpleasant and cannot stand their smell.

How tall do Photinia Red Robins get?

Photinia Maintenance – Photinia is easy to care for and maintain and can reach a mature height of 7m and a spread of 3m. Growing at a rate of up to 30cm a year, pruning is only required twice a year to keep your hedge/tree under control and in shape. Trim new shoots to encourage bright red re-growth.

Do not trim from late August onwards to prevent new growth being damaged by frost later in the year.
Photinia can be grown as a dense shrub or as a Standard Tree.
Being evergreen its perfect for creating privacy in your garden as an all year round hedge screen.
As a standard tree, Photinia can create an elevated screen with the bushy head of the tree sitting above the top of a standard fence panel.

This creates additional height for increased privacy in your garden. With its modest root structure it can be planted adjacent to buildings. Photinia Tree 1/2 Standard and smaller 1/4 Standard Photinia trees are very decorative and perfect for adding a splash of evergreen colour to your garden. Ideal for smaller gardens and front gardens. These forms can be purchased with a topiary or bushy head.

Why are my red robin leaves drooping?

PHOTINIA RED ROBINQUESTION AND ANSWER Our main Photinia Red Robin article can be found, But sometimes our readers ask specific questions which are not covered in the main article. This page lists their comments, questions and answers. COMMENTING HAS NOW BEEN TURNED OFF FOR THIS PAGE

Date: 9 May 2019	From: Josephine
QUESTION: We have a Red Robin in a pot which is about five years old and have just noticed the new growth of red leaves have become very dry and are falling off. It only seems to affected this years growth! Please can you advise. ANSWER : It seems very likely that the hedge was providing protection to side of your Red Robin. Having taken it away, the relatively tender leaves have suffered more than rest of the shrub. I would give it a light trim on the damaged side and hope for better things later on in the season or next year.
Date: 1 May 2019	From: Suzanne
QUESTION: We have a Red Robin in a pot which is about five years old and have just noticed the new growth of red leaves have become very dry and are falling off. It only seems to affected this years growth! Please can you advise. ANSWER : If it has been in the same pot for five years it may well have outgrown it. I would repot it into a larger new pot adding new compost and a good handful of fish, blood and bone fertiliser. I would then trim off any affected stems. If repotting is not an option, scoop away the top surface of the compost, replace with new potting compost, add fertiliser and trim as described above.
Date: 9 March 2019	From: Lynne
QUESTION: I planted a Red Robin hedge about 6 weeks ago. The plants are about 3 to 4 foot high and growing well. Obviously the plants are spindly as they are new. When do you suggest that I should start to prune them? Is it just a case of trimming them all to the same height to get the hedge the same height? ANSWER : I would let the plant establish itself before pruning. Let it be this year and then next year prune it removing the top 20% in April. After that, prune it in April and late June each year to the height you want.
Date: 9 March 2019	From: Lynne
QUESTION: Are Photinia Red Robin deer resistant please? ANSWER : Very few plants are deer resistant if deer are really hungry. However, Photinia Red Robin will be one of the least attractive to deer.
Date: 9 September 2018	From: Jim C
QUESTION: I have just planted some red robin they are all about 3ft tall I mixed the soil with bone fish and blood should I keep them watered regularly or just when it is dry. ANSWER : When a Red Robin is established, a year or so after planting, it should be able to look after itself as far as water is concerned except in extremely prolonged dry and hot periods. For the first year however the roots are not very deep and regular watering my be required if rainfall is low. From October to March, most areas of the UK receive sufficient rainfall for even newly planted plants, but not always. Most newly planted shrubs have similar water requirements, and I have just planted some in my garden. Having planted the shrubs, I have watered them very well. I then mulched them (in my case with woodchip) to a depth of 5cm / 2in and to a width of about 45cm / 18in all around the shrub. Because we are now in September I reckon, unusually low rainfall aside, that should be sufficient for this year. Keep an eye for unusually dry weather of course, and water more if that occurs. Too much watering though can be as problematical as too little water.
Date: 10 August 2018	From: Gerry
QUESTION: I recently planted 5 standard red robins to use as a hedge, unfortunately due to paving they are only about 6 inches from a wall, the wall is only about 3 feet high and I will be keeping the hedge at about 4 feet, will it survive that close to the wall. I really should have checked first but I am a compulsive type of person and not very clued up on gardening yet. ANSWER : That will almost certainly cause problems. The principal problem will be lack of water in the summer. Planting shrubs close to a wall will result in very little rainfall penetrating to the roots.
Date: 21 June 2018	From: David
QUESTION I am looking to plant a row of pleached Red Robin in my rear garden for privacy, against a 14m x 6ft fence. We found 6ft pleached trees at my local nursery, which have been grown in large pots. Is it still the right time to transplant these into soil and if so how should prepare the the soil? ANSWER : The safest time of year to plant new Red Robins is mid September. In theory you can plant a potted plant at any time of the year if you can supply the soil with sufficient moisture. If you planted them now, it would be the worst time of year to try and maintain the correct moisture level. Summer is here and the ground will certainly dry out. Judging how much moisture to give them is tricky. I have also heard that where this shrub is planted in summer it can initially suffer from leaf scorch. With such a large amount of plants, I certainly would not risk it at this time of year.
Date: 26 May 2018	From: Steven G
QUESTION I’m looking at buying 4 or 5 Photinia Red Robins for screening above my 6ft fence. I have found the clear stem types with ball shape at the top total height 8ft (6ft stem). Would I be able to keep it to this size with pruning or will the stem just keep growing leaving me with a say 10ft stem and ball at the top. ANSWER : The main stem will stop growing immediately the top is pinched out and the ball shape forms. The only thing which will increase in size is the ball of foliage. That will be minimal.
Date: 23 May 2018	From: Grainne M
QUESTION I have just brought a Photinia Little Red Robin can this shrub be grown in a Tub my gardening knowledge is limited? ANSWER : Yes, you can grow Photinia Little Red Robin in a tub. As with all shrubs in a tub, keep it well watered and feed regularly With Little Red Robin, I would suggest that, over winter, you keep it well out of the way of wind and close to a heated house wall. Little Red Robin is not quite as winter hardy as its larger version Red Robin.
Date: 13 May 2018	From: Patricia
QUESTION Planted 4 dwarf red robins last September in new shrub border but now they are all without leaves and no visible buds. Should I pull them up.? Are planted in windy area but I thought red robin tolerated exposed area? ANSWER : When I tried to buy some dwarf Red Robins at my favourite garden centre a few years ago I was warned that they are not as hardy as the full sized ones. Later investigation on the internet indicated that this was probably true. If you have nothing except branches on your plants at this stage of the year then they are probably a lost cause.
Date: 29 April 2018	From: Sean
QUESTION I have a similar problem as Heidi. I’ve planted 14x 5 meter tall photinia. Some in ground, others in 1m square bottomless planters so they can tap into the bed below over time. They are all planted in John inns no.2 (loam base). We planted in February this year during a really really wet period (we also had to drench them daily to soak root ball). and then the beast from east came not long after. They have dropped loads of leaves but still some left.and now loads of new growth at the tips (flower and leaf). But there are gaps now below new growth. I did prune off lots of the long spinderly branches that were about 1-2 meters in length with only a little bit of leaf at the end. I did this when new shoots of new growth just started. As said there is new growth so it’s not dead or anything.but my question is. Will new shoots grow where the old leaves dropped off? Without trimming the top? If I prune the lowest branches (as done) will this help get the middle to old top leaves (that fell off) to regrowth? ANSWER : If you have bought 14 plants which are 5 meters high then I think that whoever sold them to you should really have advised you to buy and plant them in mid-spring or early autumn. That number of large plants is a substantial investment and planting them in February was always going to be slightly risky. Still, we’ve had the beast from the east and you are where you are. I personally would leave them well alone until late May and then decide what to do. I would assume they will show more signs of regrowth by that time. Accept the fact that this harsh winter will mean that they won’t be at their best this year. If they are starting to bush out in late May then I would trim the top 50cm off and then leave them alone again for the rest of the year. Don’t prune them from July onwards because this will simply encourage new tender growth which may be open to damage when winter 2018 comes along. Leave any stems lower down the plant alone now. They may not show signs of life this year but possibly could next year. The very best of luck.
Date: 28 April 2018	From: Dawn B
QUESTION In the rear, east facing, border of the house where we now live, there is a very mature photinia about 12 foot high which had been planted right against the fence. The lower limbs are completely bare up to around 6 feet but they have obviously been light seeking (due to shade from a copse behind the back fence) and are now at 45 degrees instead of upright. This has effectively foreshortened the 30 foot depth of the garden by around 6-7 feet. Would it be possible to cut the limbs right back, in the hope of forcing new growth at the base which can be trained upright, or is complete removal the only answer? ANSWER : I haven’t personally been in this situation but I strongly suspect that the Red Robin will not regrow if you cut it down below exiting stems / branches. Even if it does, regrowth is likely to be sporadic and take a very long time.
Date: 07 April 2018	From: Stephen
QUESTION We planted pleached red robin trees inside the east and south walls of a walled garden four years ago. Those inside the eastern wall have done beautifully; those inside the southern wall less so. One comment I had was those inside the southern wall would need better watering. The trunks are inside the wall and the heads of the trees above the wall. Seeing your cautionary comments about not over watering, I wonder if the advice I have received is valid, or is I should be using something to feed the roots of the less robust trees ? ANSWER : A very interesting question and possibly quite complicated to come to the correct conclusion without viewing the site. Firstly, if the soil is the same for both aspects I would rule out changing the current feeding regime. Normally, unless the soil is very poor, Red Robin will look after itself. A couple of handfuls of fish, blood and bone in spring will possibly help but it’s not crucial. There are a few possible remaining factors as far as I see it, wind, rainfall and the amount of sun received. Let’s deal with sun first. Unless you live outside of the UK, Red Robin will deal with any amount of sunshine. Next is wind, the prevailing wind in the UK is from the South West which means your east wall would receive more wind compared the south. That leaves rainfall and I suspect your east wall would receive more rain. My conclusion would be, given you are growing against a wall, is that the south wall Red Robin are not receiving sufficient water. The advice I give in my article assumed that the aspect would be open, apologies for not mentioning that. So the other advice you received appears to be true. Possibly more so than you would suspect. Growing a shrub against a wall will definitely rob it of water, a south aspect will only make matters worse. One half way house you could try would be to apply a thick mulch (8cm or so) around the Red Robin grown on the south wall. Water very well before you apply it.
Date: 05 April 2018	From: Heidi
QUESTION We have 4 Photinia Red Robin standards planted against a wall. Although the tops are a foot above the wall. They have been planted for 18 months and have just lost most of their leaves. Is this normal as they look pretty bare now with just a few red shoots coming? ANSWER : I have received several emails about the situation you mention. Not only are Photinias affected but Hypericums are also affected in a similar manner. My own Hypericum is affected, but when I look closely at the shrub it is clear that new shoots and growth are forming, they are just not developed sufficiently at the moment to affect the overall appearance of the shrub. My strong guess is your Photinia will recover by mid May. It’s not normal, it has been caused by the recent prolonged cold spell in combination with strong winds. The snow probably didn’t help as well. I would definitely wait and see what happens over the next six weeks or so.
Date: 22 February 2018	From: Christopher
QUESTION :I acquired a week ago five large Red Robin plants that are in 40/50 ltr large pots and these have been placed on my balcony near to the wall. I like the height of these plant/tree which is between 2.5 and 3m in height. The leaves on the tree are unfortunately droopy and some have browned. I plan to cut the branches back but given the cold weather in London in mid Feb should I cut the plant down now, or wait a few weeks or month? Any tips on improving the look of the leaves to make them more perkier and healthier rather than its current droopy lacklustre look? Should I add horse manure (collected from nearby Common). ANSWER : I would prune it in late March to mid April, February is bit too early. For plants in containers I would avoid horse manure. A couple of handfuls of fish, blood and bone three or for times a year would be my choice. My concern would be your reference to droopy leaves. Although Red Robin tends to look a bit bedragled at this time of year, the leaves which are there shouldn’t be droopy. Have you watered correctly? Both under and over-watering can cause droopy leaves. I would water when the top 5cm / 2in of the compost is dry, not before. But check regularly.3m high shrubs will loose a significant amount of water. It sounds like the shrubs were in the lacklustre condition when you acquired them. It’s quite possible that the previous owner may not have watered them correctly and / or not fed them. If that’s the case, they will most likely recover soon with the correct care.

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Date: 03 November 2017 From: Pat QUESTION : I have recently moved into a house with two red robins in an easy facing border. One is looking quite straggly. It seems to have lost a lot of leaves from the lower half, (it’s about 10ft high). If I prune it down to 5/6ft, will it grow back bushier? It looks like it has buds on otherwise bare branches at lower levels. ANSWER : Yes, I’m sure a 50% prune will encourage those lower buds to sprout. I would prune it in late March to mid April.

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Date: 15 October 2017 From: Bernard QUESTION : Our red robin 4 years old has thrived in full sun and is pruned in annually in June. After pruning this year it flourished and produced lots of new red leaf growth an looked really healthy. Over a matter of days the vivid redness has disappeared. Is this normal? ANSWER : The red foliage normally lasts a few weeks. To encourage it I would prune it in spring, April to May time and then prune again a couple of times to encourage more of the red foliage.

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Date: 12 April 2017 From: Colin QUESTION : Do red robin plants cause damage to public highway paths if planted near to fence adjoining public path? ANSWER : Every situation is different but as a general rule Red Robin shrubs are considered non-invasive and are unlikely to damage nearby paths.

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Date: 12 April 2017 From: Stephen H QUESTION : I’m not sure who best to contact but I have a problem with what I think is a Photinia. It has been in my garden for at least 20 years and has developed into more of a tree than a bush. Problem is that it’s starting to look as though it’s very unhappy, droopy leaves and looking dry. I have cut one side back which looked very dead but I’d like to save the rest if I can as everyone comments on how lovely it is We did wonder if it’s due to the decking we put around it but it should still get plenty of moisture from deep underground, we do water it as well. Our soil is very sandy. Hope you can give me some tips or maybe recommend somewhere else I can approach. ANSWER : With decking around the tree it’s going to be very difficult to get the conditions at the roots correct. Under normal conditions an established photinia requires watering only in drought conditions. However you have sandy soil and the decking will cause the water to run away from the roots. My guess is that it is indeed lacking water. The sheer size of the shrub and the amount of foliage will result in significant evaporation. On the other hand, to play devil’s advocate to myself, overwatering would drown the roots and cause the leaves to wilt as well. It all depends on how much you have watered the tree. I would suggest that the only way you will find out is to remove a panel or two of the decking, three or four feet away from the main trunk and see how moist or dry the soil is. Apologies for not being more specific.

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Date: 6 May 2016 From: Mary QUESTION : We planted a standard red robin about 8 years ago and it has a stem of about 3ft before it bushes out, it grows very well. Last year we planted another two (one each side of the original) but the stems are only about 2ft high at present. Will the stems naturally grow in height to match the original one or do we need to do anything i.e. pruning? ANSWER : The stem itself won’t grow any taller. Only the bush on top of the stem will grow in height if you don’t prune it. There’s nothing practical you can do now.

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Date: 6 May 2016 From: Mary QUESTION : We planted 3 red robins in March in partial sun and free draining soil. They are 6 ft high. They were well watered in on planting and we have had a lot of rain (North Yorkshire) but the leaves are beginning to droop. Is this due to current dry spell and should we just water freely at this stage? Thanks. ANSWER : It’s almost impossible to diagnose this type of problem with a newly planted shrub without actually seeing it. In general though, newly planted shrubs may well require watering in dry conditions for the first year or so. I would be surprised though if this was the cause of your problem at this time of year in North Yorkshire. Too much water can drown the roots and this would have the same effect on the leaves. In reality, anything which prevents the roots absorbing moisture will eventually cause the plant to droop. Large shrubs especially are well known for being difficult to establish when they are moved. Are you sure that the surrounding soil has been firmed down well and is in good contact with the rootball. You mention that they were planted in March and are 6ft high which indicates they would have been a costly addition to your garden. If there is a guarantee with the plants I would take some pictures and ask the seller for their comments.

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Date: 27 April 2016 From: Tom QUESTION : We have two Red Robins that initially thrived but now all the leaves have gone brown entirely – look almost burnt. They are positioned in partial sun and have had plenty of water. What would you recommend as the plant is still alive – cutting back or replanting? ANSWER : Red Robins with significant areas of brown leaves are a sign of too much moisture or too little. In most cases it is because of too much water. Heavy clay is not their ideal soil and should be improved with lots of and horticultural grit at planting time. Even after they are planted the addition of organic matter under the canopy of the shrub will help especially if gently mixed in with the surface soil. Worms will take it down further and encourage better drainage. Be careful of watering by hand. Even in dry weather a Red Robin should be able to find enough water from its roots. Unless the ground is exceptionally dry I would avoid watering altogether after the plant has been in the ground for a year. It is worth while cutting back your Red Robin if you also improve the soil conditions at the same time.

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Date: 23 April 2016 From: Jenny D QUESTION : We are trying to grown a photinia hedge behind our low front wall and really want the height to increase this year but I wonder should I trim the bottom shoots off to encourage growth at the top? I’m worried doing that will leave the bottom looking bare forever ANSWER : Red Robin does tend to become a bit bare at the base, especially if the top is not trimmed occasionally. So, I wouldn’t advise trimming off the bottom, it may well go bare and the only way to re-encourage the base to grow would be to trim the top off. That would be self-defeating as far as your objective is concerned. It’s simply a matter of waiting for the shrub to grow naturally.

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Date: 22 April 2016 From: Barry QUESTION : We are looking to get this as a hedge – can it be bought as such? A landscaper is recommending we buy 6 red robin plants, but (stand alone) these look wispy and bare! We were hoping to have a lovely lush hedge from the ground up. ANSWER : Photinia Red Robin make an ideal hedge. When young, the plants will look wispy and insubstantial, as would any shrub, but give them three years and they will look fine. Because you are planning to buy six or so I would first look around your neighbourhood to see if other gardeners are growing Red Robin. If is grows well in your area you will almost certainly find it in other gardens nearby because it is very popular. If you can’t find any growing locally, I would be a bit wary that it may not suit your local conditions.

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Date: 25 March 2016 From: janice QUESTION : I have a red robin which I planted last year the the tips of new red leaves are black and curling inwards they almost look burned. Other than that the plant looks very healthy. Any ideas? ANSWER : The explanation of what you describe is that young foliage has grown because of relatively warm weather and then a much cooler period with some frost has damaged the leaf tips. This does happen with a large number of shrubs in some years and I don’t believe it indicates any disease problem. With such a strong growing shrub I feel sure it will grow out of it in a month or so.

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Date: 2 September 2015 From: Lee QUESTION : I’d like to plant this as a hedge, I can find information on spacing but not on how far from the fence I should plant. Could you please tell me if I wanted to keep this as a 5ft hedge how wide would it need to be to let the plant mature properly? Thank you ANSWER : When grown against a wall or fence then the plants should be at least 60cm / 2ft from the wall or fence. If they are planted any nearer they may suffer from lack of moisture at the roots because the base of walls and fences will not receive as much rainfall as in an open position.

PHOTINIA RED ROBINQUESTION AND ANSWER

Do Photinia Red Robin lose their leaves?

Bill replies. – It is important when you move any large shrub to ensure you keep it well watered for at least twelve months and it could be Janet that your Photinia is suffering from being transplanted. To ensure new shoots appear from the base you are going to have to prune your Photinia hard back which will encourage new and vigorous shoots to regenerate.

What kills photinia?

Red Tip Photinias This week, I received a question from a concerned home gardener about a disease on red tip photinia. Before I saw the pictures included in the email, I had a good hunch about the culprit. Red tip photinias became popular in the 1960’s as a privacy screen.

This large shrub has beautiful spring color and can be found lining many fencerows in older homes. Unfortunately, red tip photinia faces a devastating disease issue called entomosporium leafspot, Entomosporium leafspot is a fungal disease that affects woody ornamentals in the rose family. Indian hawthorne is another shrub impacted by entomosporium leafspot.

This fungus does the most damage when we have frequent fall and spring rainfall, temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees, and the plant is actively growing. The first symptoms are bright red spots on the new leaves that can join to form large maroon blotches in heavily diseased plants.

The fungus might just cause leaf drop in minor infections, but over time it can kill the whole plant.
If you have a light infection of entomosporium leafspot, you can help slow the spread by removing fallen leaves to reduce fungal spores.
Try not to allow the foliage to remain wet, so water in the morning and use drip irrigation if possible.

New growth increases the susceptibility of the plant to infections, so limit pruning and excessive fertilizer to prevent a lot of new growth. Fungicides such as thiophanate-methyl and myclobutanil can be used when conditions are favorable for the disease.

You have to time the application to cool, wet weather. Fungicides are not effective during hot, dry weather. Unfortunately, entomosporium leafspot is destructive for red tip photinia and Indian hawthorn. If you have this fungus for long, you might consider removing the shrubs and replanting with other options.

The “Grow Green: Native and Adapted Landscape Plants” guide has some great recommendations for our area of Central Texas. You can find it free online or at most local nurseries for purchase. For more information about lawn and garden topics, contact County Extension Agent Kate Whitney at the AgriLife Extension Office at 512-943-3300.

How do you revive photinia?

Prevention and Treatment of Common Photinia Bush Disease – Is there anything that can be done about red tip photinia disease? Yes, but it’s a matter of prevention rather than cure. First and foremost, rake up all fallen leaves, and if the shrub is already infected, remove all affected leaves and branches.

Cover the area under and around the shrubs with new mulch to cover any leaf parts and photinia fungus spores that remain. Do not repeatedly trim endangered shrubs to encourage the new, red growth. Keep trimming and shearing confined to the dormant winter months and dispose of all clippings. Consider replacing dead or dying shrubs with alternatives.

A mixed hedge will be more resistant to photinia bush diseases if the susceptible shrubs are placed farther apart. Remember, the spores don’t travel very far. Stagger new plantings rather than creating the traditional wall of shrubs. This will increase light and airflow around the shrub and decrease the conditions in which the fungus thrives.

There are chemical treatments available. Chlorothalonil, propiconazole, and myclobutanil are the effective ingredients to look for in available fungicides. Be aware, however, treatment must begin early and be repeated every 7-14 days throughout late winter and spring and again in the fall when the weather cools.

Red-tip photinia disease can be devastating, but with diligence and good garden housekeeping practices, the fungus can be driven from your yard. : Photinia Leaf Spot – Prevention And Treatment Of Common Photinia Bush Diseases

Can you split a Photinia?

Can I Propagate My Photinia Shrubs? – Sure you can! Even if you’re never before, you won’t have any trouble rooting photinia cuttings. The best time to take the cuttings is late summer. If you take them too early, they are too soft and tend to rot. Here’s what you’ll need:

Sharp knife Pot with several drainage holes Bag of rooting medium Large plastic bag with a twist tie

Take the cuttings early in the morning before the sun begins to dry out the leaves. A good stem will snap off when bent double. Cut 3- to 4-inch (7.5-10 cm.) lengths from the tips of the healthiest stems, making the cut just below a leaf stem. It’s best to cut the stem with a sharp knife rather than pruning shears because shears pinch the stem, making it hard for the stem to take up water.

Is Photinia Red Robin poisonous?

Do not Feed

Common Name: Photinia (Red Robin) Latin Name: Photinia spp. esp. Photinia x fraseri Family Name: Rosaceae

This plant is TOXIC, It contains cyanogenic glycosides that will turn to cyanide once eaten so avoid at all costs. One of the more common Photinia shrubs is the one commonly known as Red Robin ( Photinia x fraseri ).

How do you treat Photinia red robin black spots on leaves?

Protecting photinia from leaf spot –

Anti-fungal spray such as Bordeaux mixture is one of the best ways to prevent Photinia from falling sick. It’s also possible to prepare your own natural fungicide from weeds and plants that might grow in your garden. Spray at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring. Don’t spray if temperatures are below freezing. Rake up or collect any leaves that are infected instead of leaving them near the shrub. Destroy them either by burning them or thorough composting.

Since the fungus spreads through splashing water from shrub to shrub, you can prevent photinia leaf spot if you :

Plant different varieties near each other in a mixed hedge, instead of only planting Photinia. Alternate Photinia with other evergreen hedge shrubs Prune your photinia as a standalone into a tree shape, to avoid low-lying leaves, Water only near the ground, without splashing the leaves. Avoid pruning in summer, because this would trigger new growth that the fungus will quickly colonize.

How leggy is too leggy?

When to give up on leggy seedlings – Though it can be heartbreaking for gardeners attached to their baby plants, sometimes it is better just to cut your losses when it comes to leggy seedlings. “If they get too skinny like that, they won’t do too well outside,” Moreno said.

Some of them are like just chuck them all and start over.” “You can’t push it back together,” Graper laughed. “If it gets really bad, probably the best thing to do would be to plant more seeds in a sunnier location.” Moreno said that you can often tell when seedlings are past the point of no return.

“When they get really limp and they’re kind of laying down, I just say they’re done,” Moreno said. “They look like they’re pretty much past saving, and that’s when you want to start over.” Graper said to look out for two key things: the distance between the first set of leaves and the soil, and the distance between sets of leaves.

The distance between the potting soil and the first true leaves should be fairly close to the soil surface, about one to two inches,” Graper said. “If it’s three or four inches, that’s probably not worth dealing with. If there’s an inch or so between each set of leaves that come out, that’s also probably going to be too leggy.” If you have started your seedlings early enough in the season, however, you can start over with new seeds in a brighter location.

“Early in the season, there’s still time to restart some of these plants,” Graper said. “When in doubt, I would say replant.” : How to salvage leggy seedlings

Can you bury leggy stems?

How deep can you plant leggy seedlings? – Well, that depends on the type of plant and size of the seedling! The goal is to bury the leggy seedling stem enough so that the plant isn’t too top heavy and can successfully grow. Otherwise, I personally err on the side of caution and avoid burying them more than necessary.

Most common garden vegetables don’t mind if you bury their stem part way or all the way up to their first set of true leaves (or first set of lateral branches). You can do this with peppers and members of the brassica family: kale, collard greens, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, or cauliflower. If the vegetable is one that should normally form a head or bulb right at the soil line, then you’ll want to bury it up to that point – where the stem branches and begins to form the main crop, so that its weight will be supported on the soil surface. Consider a head of lettuce, bok choy, cabbage, or kohlrabi for example. You can plant some seedlings even deeper. Tomatoes and tomatillos are prime examples. Due to their advantageous root systems, it is a common practice to remove the lowest few branches and bury leggy tomato seedlings up past that point (planting up to half of the plant underground). Tomatoes and tomatillos will grow new roots off of the buried portion of the stem! More roots equals a more robust and healthy plant. It is less necessary to deeply bury seedlings of plants that will continue to grow tall branching stems well above the soil line anyways, such as flowers or herbs, I’ve heard conflicting things about how well eggplant, squash, and cucumber seedlings take to being planted deeply (as they may be more prone to rotting). Therefore, play it safe and only minimally bury those if needed, and do so in well-draining soil that won’t hold copious moisture around their stems.

Planting a slightly leggy cauliflower seedling, burying the stem a couple inches (up to the first set of leaves). This was a tomatillo seedling that got WAY too tall in our greenhouse. It had ample light, but we started it too soon (I forgot how quickly tomatillos get large!) so I buried the stem a good 6 inches deep when transplanting it into the garden. I still ended up starting a new seedling to replace it because I didn’t like it’s growth structure, so I dug it up about a month later to replace it.

How do you revive a Photinia?

Photinia tolerates cutting back to about 6 inches (15 cm.) above the ground. The problem with this type of pruning is that it leaves a gap and ugly stump in the landscape. You can try hiding it with tall annuals, but if it bothers you, there is another method that isn’t as extreme. The second way to rejuvenate red tip photinia takes three or four years, but the shrub continues to fill its place in the landscape as it regrows.

Why do the leaves keep falling off my red robin?

Photinia Red Robin shrubs — Wykeham Mature Plants At this time of year (late spring), we sometimes hear “My Photinia fraseri Red Robin shrubs looked fantastic when I bought them; dense with shiny dark green older leaves and bright red younger leaves.

Now, a couple of years later, the young leaves still come out bright red, but the older leaves are a paler yellow-green, with dark spots on them, and the bushes as a whole look thin and straggly.
What’s happened and what can I do to make them look healthy again?” – Understanding the plant itself, and a small amount of love and attention every year will keep them looking fabulous! Above: A leggy, sickly-looking Photinia Photinia ‘Red Robin’ is a shrub which has become extremely popular in recent years, and can be used for a wide variety of situations, even trimmed as a ‘standard’ to give a tree-like shape to provide evergreen screening above a 6ft fence or wall.

It is a vigorous, large-leafed evergreen, mainly grown for the bright red colour of the young leaves, which gradually mature to a glossy dark green – or should do! There are a number of factors which could be involved here. Photinias don’t do particularly well in shade or in close proximity with large, established trees.

When grown in the shade they tend to become drawn and rather straggly and, although like most evergreens they won’t tolerate being waterlogged for long, excessively dry locations tend to stress them, making them drop more of the older leaves than they otherwise would. Photinias will grow in a range of soil types, including quite alkaline conditions if there is sufficient organic matter, but they could be described as hungry feeders.

Their natural growth habit is quite vigorous and upright, producing new leaves at the tips of long upright stems, and dropping the older leaves as they go, the result of which, if left to their own devices, is often a rather straggly shrub with “bare legs”! However, with a little bit of work every year, and it doesn’t have to be very much, these shrubs can look completely different; dense, glossy and colourful.

Firstly, an annual trim is essential to encourage side branching and to maintain density, just as you would do for a hedge.
In fact, if the site isn’t too windy, too cold or too wet, Photinias can be used to make an attractive hedge with great effect.
I like to give an annual trim in June to maintain density – it breaks your heart to remove a fair proportion of the new red leaves, but a second flush will soon emerge after a few weeks which will then see you through to the autumn.

Don’t trim too late in the summer or autumn as the new leaves will still be too soft when the frosts come and will be frost burnt. Restorative pruning of a leggy specimen can be done by hard-pruning to just above a bud or node, cutting quite far down the leggy stems to encourage a bushier plant; this is most effective if done in April or May, depending on how cold the weather is, during the first flush of vigorous spring growth.

Secondly, as I’ve said, they are hungry feeders, so an annual feed in April works wonders.
A general fertiliser, such as Fish, Blood & Bonemeal, or a good Rose fertiliser, will make a significant difference to the appearance and colour of the foliage.
If necessary, repeat this in mid-summer.
Another aspect to feeding Photinias is that their vigorous nature means that they use a lot of Magnesium, a shortage of which would encourage the plant to shed yet more of the older leaves.

Magnesium is a very mobile nutrient, and it is easily leached out of freely draining soils during prolonged periods of rain, and drought conditions will also affect the plant’s ability to take it up. A tablespoonful of Epsom salts dissolved in a gallon of water and applied at or soon after applying the other fertiliser will help prevent a deficiency, which would otherwise result in the plant taking Magnesium out of the older leaves to put into the new ones.

Interestingly though, Magnesium deficiency symptoms in Photinias often cause little burgundy-coloured spots on the older leaves, as well as a general yellowing of the older foliage. These spots can easily be mistaken for a fungal leaf spot disease. This doesn’t of course mean that Photinias can’t be affected by leaf spot diseases, of course they can, as are most plants in some form.

However, it tends to be already stressed plants that are worst affected. You can control these fungal leaf spot diseases to a point using general fungicides, such as those for spraying roses, but an otherwise healthy and well-fed Photinia will usually just shrug-off leaf spot and continue to grow happily regardless.

Being too dry for too long, or too cold in winter, are other stress factors which can also stimulate Photinias to drop more of the older leaves and thereby necessitate a one-off restorative pruning, so occasional watering in long periods of dry weather (I use the washing-up water!) will help with that potential problem, but there’s not a lot you can do about a cold winter.

For this reason, due to the greater proportion of older leaves dropped in spring following a cold winter in the North of the country than our Southern cousins would experience, Photinia is not very suitable for ‘pleaching’ (fanning out on a flat panel above a tall clear stem to give a two-dimensional screen) in the North as it is difficult to maintain sufficient density to give the required effect.

This is a question that I get asked a lot, so I’ve given quite a lot of information here, but to sum up, if you want Photinias to keep their density and to look their best, trim them annually, feed them once or twice per year with a general fertiliser and some additional Magnesium, don’t let them get too dry for too long (but don’t drown them) and never plant them in the shade.

: Photinia Red Robin shrubs — Wykeham Mature Plants

Can I take a cutting from a Photinia?

How to propagate Photinias from cuttings – The best time of year to take photinia cuttings is mid to late summer when the stem is just the right thickness. Early morning is the ideal time to take the cuttings, while they’re still moist from the dew. You can also take your cuttings on a cool, cloudy day. It’s a good idea to disinfect your pruning shears or knife before you begin. I like to use a weak tea tree oil solution with one part tea tree oil and ten parts water. You could also use bleach in place of the tea tree oil. Take the cuttings about 3 to 4 inches (8 to 10 cm) from the tips of healthy stems and cut just below a leaf on a slight angle. Keep the cuttings out of sunlight while you’re working. Cuttings lose moisture through their leaves, so remove the lower leaves and just keep the leaves at the tip. If the leaves are large, cut them in half but be careful not to damage the tips at the end of the cutting. If you like, you can dip the stem in rooting powder or gel before planting the cutting to encourage root growth. If you prefer a natural option, you can use honey as a natural rooting hormone. RELATED: How To Use Honey To Root Cuttings

Why are the leaves on my red robin plant drooping?

Date: 9 May 2019	From: Josephine
QUESTION: We have a Red Robin in a pot which is about five years old and have just noticed the new growth of red leaves have become very dry and are falling off. It only seems to affected this years growth! Please can you advise. ANSWER : It seems very likely that the hedge was providing protection to side of your Red Robin. Having taken it away, the relatively tender leaves have suffered more than rest of the shrub. I would give it a light trim on the damaged side and hope for better things later on in the season or next year.
Date: 1 May 2019	From: Suzanne
QUESTION: We have a Red Robin in a pot which is about five years old and have just noticed the new growth of red leaves have become very dry and are falling off. It only seems to affected this years growth! Please can you advise. ANSWER : If it has been in the same pot for five years it may well have outgrown it. I would repot it into a larger new pot adding new compost and a good handful of fish, blood and bone fertiliser. I would then trim off any affected stems. If repotting is not an option, scoop away the top surface of the compost, replace with new potting compost, add fertiliser and trim as described above.
Date: 9 March 2019	From: Lynne
QUESTION: I planted a Red Robin hedge about 6 weeks ago. The plants are about 3 to 4 foot high and growing well. Obviously the plants are spindly as they are new. When do you suggest that I should start to prune them? Is it just a case of trimming them all to the same height to get the hedge the same height? ANSWER : I would let the plant establish itself before pruning. Let it be this year and then next year prune it removing the top 20% in April. After that, prune it in April and late June each year to the height you want.
Date: 9 March 2019	From: Lynne
QUESTION: Are Photinia Red Robin deer resistant please? ANSWER : Very few plants are deer resistant if deer are really hungry. However, Photinia Red Robin will be one of the least attractive to deer.
Date: 9 September 2018	From: Jim C
QUESTION: I have just planted some red robin they are all about 3ft tall I mixed the soil with bone fish and blood should I keep them watered regularly or just when it is dry. ANSWER : When a Red Robin is established, a year or so after planting, it should be able to look after itself as far as water is concerned except in extremely prolonged dry and hot periods. For the first year however the roots are not very deep and regular watering my be required if rainfall is low. From October to March, most areas of the UK receive sufficient rainfall for even newly planted plants, but not always. Most newly planted shrubs have similar water requirements, and I have just planted some in my garden. Having planted the shrubs, I have watered them very well. I then mulched them (in my case with woodchip) to a depth of 5cm / 2in and to a width of about 45cm / 18in all around the shrub. Because we are now in September I reckon, unusually low rainfall aside, that should be sufficient for this year. Keep an eye for unusually dry weather of course, and water more if that occurs. Too much watering though can be as problematical as too little water.
Date: 10 August 2018	From: Gerry
QUESTION: I recently planted 5 standard red robins to use as a hedge, unfortunately due to paving they are only about 6 inches from a wall, the wall is only about 3 feet high and I will be keeping the hedge at about 4 feet, will it survive that close to the wall. I really should have checked first but I am a compulsive type of person and not very clued up on gardening yet. ANSWER : That will almost certainly cause problems. The principal problem will be lack of water in the summer. Planting shrubs close to a wall will result in very little rainfall penetrating to the roots.
Date: 21 June 2018	From: David
QUESTION I am looking to plant a row of pleached Red Robin in my rear garden for privacy, against a 14m x 6ft fence. We found 6ft pleached trees at my local nursery, which have been grown in large pots. Is it still the right time to transplant these into soil and if so how should prepare the the soil? ANSWER : The safest time of year to plant new Red Robins is mid September. In theory you can plant a potted plant at any time of the year if you can supply the soil with sufficient moisture. If you planted them now, it would be the worst time of year to try and maintain the correct moisture level. Summer is here and the ground will certainly dry out. Judging how much moisture to give them is tricky. I have also heard that where this shrub is planted in summer it can initially suffer from leaf scorch. With such a large amount of plants, I certainly would not risk it at this time of year.
Date: 26 May 2018	From: Steven G
QUESTION I’m looking at buying 4 or 5 Photinia Red Robins for screening above my 6ft fence. I have found the clear stem types with ball shape at the top total height 8ft (6ft stem). Would I be able to keep it to this size with pruning or will the stem just keep growing leaving me with a say 10ft stem and ball at the top. ANSWER : The main stem will stop growing immediately the top is pinched out and the ball shape forms. The only thing which will increase in size is the ball of foliage. That will be minimal.
Date: 23 May 2018	From: Grainne M
QUESTION I have just brought a Photinia Little Red Robin can this shrub be grown in a Tub my gardening knowledge is limited? ANSWER : Yes, you can grow Photinia Little Red Robin in a tub. As with all shrubs in a tub, keep it well watered and feed regularly With Little Red Robin, I would suggest that, over winter, you keep it well out of the way of wind and close to a heated house wall. Little Red Robin is not quite as winter hardy as its larger version Red Robin.
Date: 13 May 2018	From: Patricia
QUESTION Planted 4 dwarf red robins last September in new shrub border but now they are all without leaves and no visible buds. Should I pull them up.? Are planted in windy area but I thought red robin tolerated exposed area? ANSWER : When I tried to buy some dwarf Red Robins at my favourite garden centre a few years ago I was warned that they are not as hardy as the full sized ones. Later investigation on the internet indicated that this was probably true. If you have nothing except branches on your plants at this stage of the year then they are probably a lost cause.
Date: 29 April 2018	From: Sean
QUESTION I have a similar problem as Heidi. I’ve planted 14x 5 meter tall photinia. Some in ground, others in 1m square bottomless planters so they can tap into the bed below over time. They are all planted in John inns no.2 (loam base). We planted in February this year during a really really wet period (we also had to drench them daily to soak root ball). and then the beast from east came not long after. They have dropped loads of leaves but still some left.and now loads of new growth at the tips (flower and leaf). But there are gaps now below new growth. I did prune off lots of the long spinderly branches that were about 1-2 meters in length with only a little bit of leaf at the end. I did this when new shoots of new growth just started. As said there is new growth so it’s not dead or anything.but my question is. Will new shoots grow where the old leaves dropped off? Without trimming the top? If I prune the lowest branches (as done) will this help get the middle to old top leaves (that fell off) to regrowth? ANSWER : If you have bought 14 plants which are 5 meters high then I think that whoever sold them to you should really have advised you to buy and plant them in mid-spring or early autumn. That number of large plants is a substantial investment and planting them in February was always going to be slightly risky. Still, we’ve had the beast from the east and you are where you are. I personally would leave them well alone until late May and then decide what to do. I would assume they will show more signs of regrowth by that time. Accept the fact that this harsh winter will mean that they won’t be at their best this year. If they are starting to bush out in late May then I would trim the top 50cm off and then leave them alone again for the rest of the year. Don’t prune them from July onwards because this will simply encourage new tender growth which may be open to damage when winter 2018 comes along. Leave any stems lower down the plant alone now. They may not show signs of life this year but possibly could next year. The very best of luck.
Date: 28 April 2018	From: Dawn B
QUESTION In the rear, east facing, border of the house where we now live, there is a very mature photinia about 12 foot high which had been planted right against the fence. The lower limbs are completely bare up to around 6 feet but they have obviously been light seeking (due to shade from a copse behind the back fence) and are now at 45 degrees instead of upright. This has effectively foreshortened the 30 foot depth of the garden by around 6-7 feet. Would it be possible to cut the limbs right back, in the hope of forcing new growth at the base which can be trained upright, or is complete removal the only answer? ANSWER : I haven’t personally been in this situation but I strongly suspect that the Red Robin will not regrow if you cut it down below exiting stems / branches. Even if it does, regrowth is likely to be sporadic and take a very long time.
Date: 07 April 2018	From: Stephen
QUESTION We planted pleached red robin trees inside the east and south walls of a walled garden four years ago. Those inside the eastern wall have done beautifully; those inside the southern wall less so. One comment I had was those inside the southern wall would need better watering. The trunks are inside the wall and the heads of the trees above the wall. Seeing your cautionary comments about not over watering, I wonder if the advice I have received is valid, or is I should be using something to feed the roots of the less robust trees ? ANSWER : A very interesting question and possibly quite complicated to come to the correct conclusion without viewing the site. Firstly, if the soil is the same for both aspects I would rule out changing the current feeding regime. Normally, unless the soil is very poor, Red Robin will look after itself. A couple of handfuls of fish, blood and bone in spring will possibly help but it’s not crucial. There are a few possible remaining factors as far as I see it, wind, rainfall and the amount of sun received. Let’s deal with sun first. Unless you live outside of the UK, Red Robin will deal with any amount of sunshine. Next is wind, the prevailing wind in the UK is from the South West which means your east wall would receive more wind compared the south. That leaves rainfall and I suspect your east wall would receive more rain. My conclusion would be, given you are growing against a wall, is that the south wall Red Robin are not receiving sufficient water. The advice I give in my article assumed that the aspect would be open, apologies for not mentioning that. So the other advice you received appears to be true. Possibly more so than you would suspect. Growing a shrub against a wall will definitely rob it of water, a south aspect will only make matters worse. One half way house you could try would be to apply a thick mulch (8cm or so) around the Red Robin grown on the south wall. Water very well before you apply it.
Date: 05 April 2018	From: Heidi
QUESTION We have 4 Photinia Red Robin standards planted against a wall. Although the tops are a foot above the wall. They have been planted for 18 months and have just lost most of their leaves. Is this normal as they look pretty bare now with just a few red shoots coming? ANSWER : I have received several emails about the situation you mention. Not only are Photinias affected but Hypericums are also affected in a similar manner. My own Hypericum is affected, but when I look closely at the shrub it is clear that new shoots and growth are forming, they are just not developed sufficiently at the moment to affect the overall appearance of the shrub. My strong guess is your Photinia will recover by mid May. It’s not normal, it has been caused by the recent prolonged cold spell in combination with strong winds. The snow probably didn’t help as well. I would definitely wait and see what happens over the next six weeks or so.
Date: 22 February 2018	From: Christopher
QUESTION :I acquired a week ago five large Red Robin plants that are in 40/50 ltr large pots and these have been placed on my balcony near to the wall. I like the height of these plant/tree which is between 2.5 and 3m in height. The leaves on the tree are unfortunately droopy and some have browned. I plan to cut the branches back but given the cold weather in London in mid Feb should I cut the plant down now, or wait a few weeks or month? Any tips on improving the look of the leaves to make them more perkier and healthier rather than its current droopy lacklustre look? Should I add horse manure (collected from nearby Common). ANSWER : I would prune it in late March to mid April, February is bit too early. For plants in containers I would avoid horse manure. A couple of handfuls of fish, blood and bone three or for times a year would be my choice. My concern would be your reference to droopy leaves. Although Red Robin tends to look a bit bedragled at this time of year, the leaves which are there shouldn’t be droopy. Have you watered correctly? Both under and over-watering can cause droopy leaves. I would water when the top 5cm / 2in of the compost is dry, not before. But check regularly.3m high shrubs will loose a significant amount of water. It sounds like the shrubs were in the lacklustre condition when you acquired them. It’s quite possible that the previous owner may not have watered them correctly and / or not fed them. If that’s the case, they will most likely recover soon with the correct care.

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PHOTINIA RED ROBINQUESTION AND ANSWER

Skye Skinner