How To Tell If Grass Seed Is Germinating

How to Tell If Grass Seed Is Germinating – Photo: MarkoDzeletovic/ iStock / Getty Images Plus / Getty Images The most straightforward way to know if your grass seed is germinating is to look at it. If the seed’s sprout is pushing up through the soil, it has successfully germinated. If there are no sprouts after two weeks, check the seeds.

If the seeds still look the same as when they were initially planted or are covered in mold or a fuzzy texture, something has gone wrong, and they might not germinate properly.
You should also look to see that the seeds are turning green—this indicates that they are photosynthesizing and preparing to germinate.

You’ll want to allow the sprouts to grow 3 or 4 inches tall before disturbing them with a mower. It will likely take them 4 to 6 weeks after initial germination to reach this height as they need time to establish roots in the soil. Different species germinate at different rates and require different conditions.

Contents

- 0.0.1 How do you know if a seed is germinating?

1 What does grass look like when it is seeding?
2 Will seeds that float germinate?
- 2.1 Can I replant seeds that did not germinate?
3 Is it OK to check on germinating seeds?
- - 3.0.1 Does seed germinate in dark or light?
  - 3.0.2 How long after seeding will I see grass?
4 Why does my grass look like hay?
5 Can seeds get too hot to germinate?
6 Is sunlight good for seed germination?
7 How long do you let a seed germinate?

How do you know if a seed is germinating?

What is a germination test? – A germination test determines the percentage of seeds that are alive in any seed lot. The level of germination in association with seed vigor provides a very good estimate of the potential field performance. While the speed of germination varies slightly across varieties, seeds should absorb moisture within two days and produce a root and the first leaf within four days.

What does grass look like when it is seeding?

What’s Going On? – Your lawn is flowering. Cool season turf grass goes through a process in mid-spring where it flowers and begins the process of setting seed. These immature seed heads make the turf look “feathery” and can detract from the overall dark green color of your turf.

Will seeds that float germinate?

Raise your hand if at this time of year you have walked out into the garage or wherever you have stored your seed stash from the previous year or years, and wondered, “Hmmmm, are these seeds any good?” Will they sprout (begin to grow, give off shoots or buds)? Will I be wasting my time and energy planting these seeds? My hand is up. I have seeds (flower and vegetable) left over from last year, seeds collected, and seeds given to me from others. Seeds are an expense and some seeds have special meaning or memories attached to them because they came from special friends and/or loved ones. So what can you do? There are a couple of tests that can be used to see if the seeds in question will germinate (process by which an organism grows from a seed or similar structure) or are viable (able to take root or grow). One method to check for seed viability is the water test. Take the seeds and place them in a container of water. Let the seeds sit for 15 minutes. If the seeds sink, they are still viable; if they float, discard, because they probably will not sprout. Question: Can the seeds that sink still be planted? Answer: Yes. Sow the seeds directly in the soil if it is the proper planting time or thoroughly dry seeds and plant when it is the appropriate time. Another method that is more dependable is the germination test. Take at least 10 seeds from the package of seeds in question and place them in a row on top of a slightly damp paper towel. Fold the towel over the seeds and place towel in a clear plastic bag. Seal the bag and place it in a warm (above 70 degrees) location. Although light is not a major factor for most seeds, a warm windowsill works well or the top of the refrigerator is a good location. (Note: You could also place the damp towel on a plate and cover with cling wrap. This way more variety of seeds can be placed on the damp towel in individual rows. Next, use a permanent marker to record date and type of seed on the outside of the bag. Look at the seed packet (if you have one) and note the germination times. Based on the average germination times listed on the seed packet, check the seeds in a few days to see if any have sprouted. If no packet, check seeds in seven to 10 days. If you are like me, I will be checking them every day, probably more than once a day, just because. Once the seeds have started to germinate remove the paper towel-wrapped seeds from the bag and count the number that have sprouted. If only half sprouted it is most likely only half will germinate. Don’t hit the panic button just yet. The solution is to just spread the seeds thicker than normal in your container or garden. According to the University of Illinois Extension Office, if less than 70 percent germinate, it might be better to buy new seeds. Question: Can the sprouted seeds be planted? Answer: Yes. Plan to do the germination test close to the time of planting so they can be seeded. Now for the parents and grandparents out there, here is a fun children’s “Garden in a Glove” project to teach children about germination. Materials needed: clear plastic glove, permanent marker, five different seed varieties, cotton balls, pencil, twist tie or string. Have the child write his or her name and date of project on the glove with the permanent marker. Write the name of each seed variety on a glove finger. Wet the cotton balls and squeeze out the excess moisture. Place three to four seeds in each cotton ball and fold ball over to secure seed. Place cotton ball in appropriately labeled glove finger and push ball down into the fingertip with the pencil. Once all seeded cotton balls have been placed, blow air into glove and secure top of glove with a twist tie or string. Hang the glove in a window or a warm location and watch for success. The seeds should germinate in three to five days. Once they have germinated, cut off tips of gloves to remove cotton balls and plant the seeded cotton balls in the soil. Here are some sources for more information: University of Illinois Extension https://extension.illinois.edu/home ; Colorado State University Extension https://extension.colstate.edu/home ; Oregon State University Extension https://extension.oregonstate.edu/home ; S andusky County Extension The Ohio State University https://sandusky.osu.edu/home, 419-334-6340; Ottawa County Extension The Ohio State University https://extension.osu.edu/ottawa-countyoffice, 419-898-3631. Watch for my August article on how to collect and store seeds for maximum shelf life. Happy planting! Carolyn Johnson is a Master Gardener with the OSU Extension Offices in Sandusky County and Ottawa counties.

Can I replant seeds that did not germinate?

If your seeds don’t germinate, simple measures for what to do include making sure to mist your soil instead of pouring water, planting seeds at the recommended depth, controlling pests and fungus, using sterile organic garden soil or growing medium, and avoid using old seeds.

Is it OK to check on germinating seeds?

How to Do a Germination Test – Bob Wildfong If you’re like me you probably have a shelf somewhere with lots of packages of old seeds; some just a year old, but some older than that, and you’re starting to wonder whether they’re worth planting next spring or whether they should be replaced.

Seed companies and seed banks test their seeds for germination all the time (at least they should) and you can too. As seeds age they lose “viability”; or the ability to sprout. A germination test uses a small sample of your seeds to check how viable the rest are, simply by trying to sprout them ahead of time and seeing how many germinate.

A germination test is the only meaningful measurement of seed viability, since it doesn’t really matter how old the seeds are. If they germinate well, they’re good, even if they’re old. And if they don’t germinate well, they’re not good, even if they’re fresh.

Common sense says that the best way to test germination is to mimic the way you would try to sprout your seeds in the spring.
So if you would plant your tomato seeds in potting soil on a windowsill in April, just test some of your old seeds the same way now, so you know whether or not you can rely on them later.

However, there’s a big difference between a simple home germination test and the kind of test that seed companies should do. Put simply, seed companies have to make sure their germination tests are accurate, not affected by variations of temperature and soil moisture, and the number of seeds tested has to be statistically significant.

Does seed germinate in dark or light?

Seeds Need the Right Environment to Germinate – Temperature, moisture, air, and light conditions must be correct for seeds to germinate. All seeds have optimal temperature ranges for germination (Table 1). The minimum temperature is the lowest temperature at which seeds can germinate effectively.

The maximum is the highest temperature at which seeds can germinate. Anything above or below this temperature can damage seeds or make them go into dormancy. At optimal temperatures, germination is rapid and uniform. All seeds need correct moisture to initiate internal processes leading up to germination.

In field soil this is generally about 50-75 percent of field capacity. A fine-textured seedbed and good seed-to-soil contact are necessary for optimal germination. Aeration in the soil media allows for good gas exchange between the germinating embryo and the soil. Not all seeds have the same light requirements. Most seeds germinate best under dark conditions and might even be inhibited by light (e.g., Phacelia and Allium spp.). However, some species (e.g., Begonia, Primula, Coleus) need light to germinate (Miles and Brown 2007).

Table 1. Soil temperature conditions for vegetable crop germination.


	Minimum (F)	Optimum Range (F)	Optimum (F)	Maximum (F)
Beet	40	50-85	85	85
Cabbage	40	45-95	85	100
Cauliflower	40	45-85	80	100
Celery	40	60-70	70	85
Chard	40	50-85	85	95
Cucumber	60	60-95	95	105
Eggplant	60	75-90	85	95
Lettuce	35	40-80	75	85
Melons	60	75-95	90	100
Onion	35	50-95	75	95
Parsley	40	50-85	75	90
Pepper	60	65-95	85	95
Pumpkin	60	70-90	90	100
Spinach	35	45-75	70	85
Squash	60	70-95	95	100
Tomato	50	70-95	85	95

Soil temperatures should be taken by inserting a soil thermometer 3-4 inches deep into the soil surface and noting temperature. Adapted from Kemble and Musgrove (2006).

How long after seeding will I see grass?

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM NEWLY PLANTED GRASS SEED – Proper timing allows all types of grass seedlings to root well and get established before natural stresses hit. What that looks like in your lawn can vary depending on your grass type, your growing region and the conditions in any given year.

Grass types and varieties vary in their natural germination speeds. For example, cool-season Kentucky bluegrass germination can take two to three times as long as tall fescue varieties. Similarly, warm-season Zoysia grass may take two to three times longer than Bermudagrass, In addition, many seed products include a mix of seed types that germinate at different speeds.

Whether you’re repairing bare spots, overseeding an existing lawn or starting from scratch, you can generally expect grass seedlings to emerge within seven to 21 days when grown under proper conditions. It may take another three to four weeks of growth before grass is long enough to mow.

For fall-planted seed, this can mean waiting until spring for your first mowing. Some grasses, such as Zoysia grass, may need several months of growth to fully establish. Much of the initial growth of new grass seedlings happens underground, where you can’t see it. New roots get grass firmly established, prepared for the seasons ahead and positioned for strong, rapid growth when their peak season arrives.

With proper timing, new grass seedlings compete well for light, water and nutrients and fight off lawn diseases and pests, including lawn weeds. Time your planting so that new seedlings become established before stressful seasons.

Why does my grass look like hay?

Grass Stress – Too much or too little water If the lawn is not getting enough water, the turfgrass begins to resemble straw. Walking on the lawn leaves footprints in the turf. Water only when needed to prevent overwatering. Do it as early in the day as possible to allow evaporation from grass blades.

Be sure to follow any watering ordinances or restrictions for your area. Too much or too little fertilizer Too much fertilizer causes excessive growth. Too little does not provide enough nutrition to promote the strong roots, crowns and leaves needed to withstand disease. Follow the proper feeding schedule for your turfgrass.

Excessive pesticide use Applying too much insecticide or herbicide can “burn” turfgrass and lead to yellow or brown grass. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications on amount and frequency of application. Hot and cold temperature extremes Wait for a change in the weather.

Do some seeds fail to germinate?

Why aren’t my seeds germinating? When we are asked, “Why are my seeds not germinating?” we consider a number of factors. Seeds are living organisms in as much as a certain percent of them will germinate in the correct conditions and produce seedlings, which, in the correct conditions, will produce plants and eventually more seeds.

Before we order our seeds, we determine if the germination rate meets our high standards. We also test each and every seed lot annually to ensure that the germination rate remains higher than Canada Number One, as set by the (CFIA). Samples of each lot of our seeds are tested in independent laboratories that are CFIA certified.

We take germination rates very seriously and print the result of each test on our seed packets. It is the goal of West Coast Seeds to provide the finest, fattest seeds, as well as the information needed, so that you have success in your garden and on your farm.

Many variables can affect the germination rate of seeds.
How the seeds were stored, their age, the depth at which they were planted, the weather, the soil they were planted in, moisture, and temperature can all play a role in the success or failure of germination.
West Coast Seeds is proud to offer seeds of the highest quality, and we stand by our product.

Our exceptional germination rate was the reason that our founder, Mary Ballon, began selling seeds. If you are not satisfied with the germination rate of our seeds, please contact us as soon as possible with the following information: Variety of seed and lot number – these are printed on all of our seed packages.

Please be prepared to describe how the seeds were planted, and all of the details mentioned above. We want you to have success in your gardens and on your farms. We will work with you to find an agreeable solution to your germination problems. This is our guarantee. West Coast Seeds cannot, though, accept liability for how you plant, maintain, or store your seeds.

The primary reasons for failed germination are:

Seeds get eaten – mice, voles, birds, and wireworms all eat seeds. Check to see that the seed is still in the soil. Seeds rot – planted too deeply, over-watered, or in cold weather, our untreated seeds may simply rot. Dig up some seeds and squeeze them. If they are soft or partially decayed, this is the problem. Seeds need specific conditions to germinate – temperature and moisture can be difficult to control beneath the soil, and are easily affected by weather, human error, and other factors. Maintaining controlled moisture in the top layer of soil is particularly challenging if it is sunny and/or windy. Timing is everything with seeds, so rely on your local first/last frost dates and hope for the weather to play along. Be sure to plant seeds at the depth recommended on each seed packet. Seeds that are planted too deeply will not germinate. Seeds (usually) require well-cultivated soil – while some plant seeds (think dandelions) will grow nearly anywhere, many herb, flower, and vegetable seeds require soil that has good drainage, the correct pH level, and adequate fertility to succeed. Follow the directions for each seed’s specific requirements. Seeds are sometimes poorly stored – make sure to store all of your unused seeds in a dry, airtight container in a cool part of your house. Excessive heat will kill seeds. Moisture (even high humidity) can cause seeds to go moldy or otherwise lose their viability. Seeds have a limited life expectancy – over time, the viability of all seeds will diminish. Use fresh, fat seed whenever possible.

: Why aren’t my seeds germinating?

Will 20 year old seeds grow?

Packed for 2000. That doesn’t mean it expires then, it just means they aren’t packaging old seed. Well smack my fanny and call me Pearl! I just germinated tomato seeds that “expired” in 2000. What’s the secret to prolonged seed vitality and successful germination? It’s all about seed storage, baby.

The truth is seeds don’t expire. They lose viability if stored improperly. While most seed companies will tell you to replace seeds every 2-3 years, those seeds will keep for decades and will germinate when planted if kept in a cool, dark, and dry place. The germination ratio may drop, but keep planting those seeds until you run out.

I have successfully planted seeds in my collection with the date stamp “1998” time and time again. Yellow Perfection seed packet from Seeds of Change (before they started using plastic packets). Packed for 2000. That doesn’t mean it expires then, it just means they aren’t packaging old seed. I start tomato seeds in seed trays under grow lights. No heat mat necessary, as our temperatures are in the low 60s to mid 70s these days. I use Quickroot seed starting planting mix and the equivalent of GrowEase trays (an older model called APS trays). Planted 3 seeds, 3 seeds germinated. (The third is tiny but you can see the emergence of the sprout loop) Not only did all seeds germinate, they sprouted in 5 days. I was so excited I had to write about it. Now to share my technique for storing seeds so you can achieve the same results: Watch this YouTube video to learn the three important factors for seed storage, and how to accomplish them in any location.

Why are my seeds not germinating after 7 days?

The Wrong Amount of Water – If your seeds aren’t germinating, first examine the amount of water you’re providing. Too much or too little water is the most likely reason for seeds not germinating. With too little or no water, seeds remain dormant. With too much water, seeds become susceptible to rot or infection from soil-borne fungi (also referred to as “dampening off”).

Will seeds germinate on top of soil?

Will grass seed germinate on top of the soil? Yes; in fact, germination will suffer if too much soil is placed on top of the seeds. The experts at Jonathan Green recommend placing a thin layer of mulch or topsoil over them to help keep them moist and warm and promote growth. The Jonathan Green name has represented genetically superior grass seed, innovation, integrity, determination, and a commitment to lawn excellence since 1881. Today, six generations later, we are industry leaders in organics and have developed Black Beauty® grass seed mixtures as well as organic and traditional soil amendments, lawn fertilizers, and control products that feed your lawn AND your soil.

Why are my seeds germinating but not sprouting?

– Dry Potting Mix – If your germinated seeds aren’t sprouting actively, check to see if the potting mix is dry. You need to keep the soil moist to allow seeds to sprout well. Remember, young sprouts do take in a lot of moisture, and dry soil can inhibit growth.

Can seeds get too hot to germinate?

What is the ideal temperature for seed germination is a simple question but the answer is actually quite complicated. Most seeds will germinate over quite a wide range of soil temperatures but the speed of germination will vary. Too cold and they’ll be very slow to sprout and too hot will also reduce the speed of germination. Far too cold or hot and they’ll just fail. Tomato Seedlings Academic research carried out in the USA has charted these temperature ranges for a number of vegetables. Interestingly the ideal temperature for germination is often far higher than you might expect. In some cases the germination temperature is higher than is ideal for growing.

Is sunlight good for seed germination?

Light is not necessary for a seed to germinate, no. The majority of seeds grow most effectively in the dark. Light, which is essential for seedling growth, may actually hinder the germination process. The three primary and necessary conditions for a seed to germinate are water, oxygen, and temperature.

What happens if you plant a seed in the dark?

Most people with a beginner’s knowledge of growing plants accept that seeds need light to germinate. If you’re starting seeds indoors, you know grow lights are necessary where sunlight is not available. But did you know there are some seeds and plants that don’t need light to germinate? The basic foundational needs of growing are light, water, and soil.

These three contribute to photosynthesis.
Degrees of these essential elements are required, but sometimes sunlight or light, in general, is not necessary to sprout seeds.
Sometimes sun inhibits seeds that germinate in darkness.
Some seeds don’t need light to break through their seed casings and sprout.

Most seeds germinate best with controlled amounts of UV generation, but there are seeds that germinate in the absence of light. Furthermore, there are plants that get enough just light in highly shady areas of a garden or even in darkness.

Do you put germinating seeds under light?

When Do I Put My Seedlings Under Light? – The answer to this one is simple. Your grow lights should be turned on (or your seedlings should be put under lights) as soon as the first seed starts to sprout. Many types of seedlings grow very fast, and they will begin reaching for the light as soon as they emerge. So give them plenty of it right from the start. Using lights for seedlings right after germination

Do some seeds fail to germinate?

Before we order our seeds, we determine if the germination rate meets our high standards.
We also test each and every seed lot annually to ensure that the germination rate remains higher than Canada Number One, as set by the (CFIA).
Samples of each lot of our seeds are tested in independent laboratories that are CFIA certified.

Many variables can affect the germination rate of seeds. How the seeds were stored, their age, the depth at which they were planted, the weather, the soil they were planted in, moisture, and temperature can all play a role in the success or failure of germination. West Coast Seeds is proud to offer seeds of the highest quality, and we stand by our product.

Please be prepared to describe how the seeds were planted, and all of the details mentioned above.
We want you to have success in your gardens and on your farms.
We will work with you to find an agreeable solution to your germination problems.
This is our guarantee.
West Coast Seeds cannot, though, accept liability for how you plant, maintain, or store your seeds.

The primary reasons for failed germination are:

: Why aren’t my seeds germinating?

How long does it take for a seed to germinate?

How long does it take for seeds to germinate? – Different seeds take different lengths of time to germinate, so it is always worth checking how long it typically takes. Some are quick to germinate, taking 1-2 weeks at most, such as chillies, beans, sunflowers and pumpkins,

Some seeds take more like 2-4 weeks, such as mango and parsley,
Others, depending on how warm/cold it is, take closer to 2 months, for example avocado,
If seedlings haven’t appeared after the typical length of time for a particular seed, it’s worth trying again with seeds from a different source.
It’s possible that the seed was simply an unlucky dud from the parent plant.

Give it another go.

How long do you let a seed germinate?

Seed Germination Tips and Instructions

Seed Germination Tips

Tropical Seeds Germinating tropical seeds can be both exceedingly easy, and very tricky. Certain seeds begin to sprout inside the fruit as it ripens. Many other seeds go into a period of dormancy that must be broken for them to germinate. Considering that “tropical seeds” encompass plants growing in such varying, but often subtlely different climates, there are a number of different strategies for germinating tropical seeds in your garden.

Below we list a number of species, with general and specific tips on germination. The only constant requirement for pretty much any seed is to keep the soil temperature warm, usually about 75-85F. Always remember, tropical seeds are not the same as the tomato, vegetable and flower of seeds you might find at a local garden store.

They have widely varying germination times that can range anywhere from the Ice Cream Bean ( Inga edulis ), which germinates while still inside the fruit, to many types of palms, which average up to 9-12 months for germination. Fortunately the latter is the exception, not the norm.

Germinating the exotics can be quite fun and extremely rewarding, but often requires a different mindset and different approach than that used for germinating the common garden annuals. Garden Vegetable and Flower Seeds Standard garden annuals, plants such as tomatoes, peppers, corn, poppies, lettuce, etc.

are in general, some of the easiest seeds to germinate. A world apart in germination ease from some of the tropicals, most will germinate rapidly (within days to a week or two) under standard conditions. A few, such as the peppers can be trickier, so read some of our comments below.

For the most part, garden annuals need minimal pre-treatment and germinate fairly well in regular soil and with moderate water. Soil temperature requirements vary, with certain seeds such as tomatoes and peppers germinating best in warmer soils and others such as lettuce, may germinate well in cooler soils.

A Note on Our Seeds We take the utmost care in handling and delivering fresh seeds. We pride ourselves on the quality and diversity of the seeds we offer and we routinely test our seeds for viability and germination. We never are going to send you old, musty seeds that have been laying on a shelf for years.

We use the very same seeds we send to customers to germinate our own plants.
Our product offerings have a lot of turnover, specifically because we strive to offer seeds in season and keep storage of seeds at a minimum.
We at Trade Winds Fruit greatly value your business and wish you all the best in your gardening endeavors! Other general tips and notes: – For difficult to germinate or hard-coated seeds, soaking seeds in a warm, moist paper towel, or in warm water, for 24 hours prior to planting also helps to break dormancy.

– Keep the soil warm! Many tropicals, just like tomatoes (which are originally from the tropics) require night time soil temperatures to be warm for germination. Even if your day time highs are well into the 70’s, the soil may cool off so much at night that the seeds never start.

Also note that many tropical seeds may be planted in sub-optimal conditions, only to germinate months (sometimes even a year or more) later when the soil warms up, or conditions are more favorable.
Passiflora seeds are notorious for this.
For tropical seeds: don’t store seeds for extended periods of time.

They are best planted sooner than later. While some varieties, e.g. Passiflora can be stored for several months or up to a year or two, many tropical seeds loose viability much faster. Some types may last only a few days or weeks. Particularly short viability seeds are always noted on package instructions, but in general, all seeds should be planted as quickly as is reasonable.

Germination rates will decrease over time. – Giberellic acid may also be applied for seeds that are more difficult to germinate. Temperate Seeds : A few require cold-stratification for germination. We’ve tried to include this information when available, but proper cold-stratification generally requires a few weeks to a few months of the seeds stored at refrigerator temperatures prior to planting.

Tropical Fruit, Ornamental, Perennial, Herb Seeds

Species	Germination Time	Difficulty	Notes
Acacia species	3-4 weeks-A few months	M	Seeds are best soaked in room temperature water for 24 hours prior to planting. Some methods include lightly scarifying the seed coat, but care should be taken to not harm the embryo inside. Seeds should then be planted in sterilized soil at 75-85F. Germination times vary, with some seeds showing quick germination within a couple of weeks and some requiring a few months.
Aegle marmelos	3-8 weeks	E	Use warm (75-90F) soil. Do not overwater, seeds are sensitive to rot. Water when soil surface begins to dry.
Annona species	2 weeks- 4 months	E-M	Break dormancy with warm soil, or pre-soak. Sprouting usually begins 1-3 months later, but can take longer.
Artocarpus species	1-3 weeks		Seeds should be planted immediately. Germination usually begins within a week or two in warm soil.
Asiminia triloba	1-6 months	M-H	May benefit from cold stratification in moist peat or soil at 34-42F for several weeks prior to planting. Upon planting, use warm soil (70-85F), keep moderately moist. Germination can be slow and a bit erratic, usually averaging a couple of months.
Berberis species	3-12 months	M-H	Extremely variable. Seeds of most species benefit from cold stratification storage at 34-40F for several weeks prior to planting. Seeds are very slow to germinate and tend to show highly erratic germination times.
Billardiera longiflora	1-12 months	M-H	Dried seeds are slow and erratic in germination time. Best germination seems to happen with day/night soil temperatures around 70F/60F, though some sources suggest using warmer soil. Use very well drained soil, keep humidity moderate to high. Can take up to a year to germinate.
Bomarea species	1-9 months	M	Extremely variable. Seeds sometimes germinate within a few weeks but may go dormant and require several months. Moderate temperatures seem best for germination (60-75F). Seeds germinate well in peat.
Borojoa patinoi	3-8 weeks	E-M	Use warm (75-90F) soil. Do not overwater, seeds are sensitive to rot. Water when soil surface begins to dry.
Brosimum species	2-4 weeks		Seeds usually begin germination upon removal from the fruit. Root growth begins almost immediately, shoot growth can take a couple weeks longer.
Brugmansia species	2-8 weeks	E-M	Variable. Plant at 70-80F. Germination usually takes at least a couple of weeks, but can take up to a couple of months. Different species show varying germination times.
Carica species	2-6 weeks	E	Generally sprouts in 2-6 weeks. Will take much longer if soil temperature is cool.
Casimiroa species	2-4 weeks	E	Generally sprouts in 2-4 weeks. Will take much longer if soil temperature is cool.
Citrus species	2 weeks- 6 months	M	Can take a couple of weeks up to 3-6 months to sprout. Make sure the soil is warm (75-85F), make sure soil is sterile. Dried citrus seeds must break dormancy to germinate, which can be tricky and time consuming.
Citrus Blood Oranges	2 weeks- 6 months	M	Blood oranges often come true to seed, unlike some other Citrus sinensis varieties. Most major blood orange varieties are usually seedless, but will produce some seeded fruits. Fruiting takes 6-12 years from seed. Follow planting directions for general Citrus,
Coffea species	1 week- 3 months	E-M	Variable, tend to be picky about warm temperatures. Keep soil at least 75F, seeds will usually then sprout in a few weeks. Dormancy can be be tough to break so seeds often take up to a few months to sprout.
Datura species	2-6 weeks	E	Warm (75-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for reasonably fast germination.
Eugenia species	varies		Many Eugenia species are marginally hardy, or subtropical. Seeds can take several weeks to begin root growth, and longer for shoot growth. Seeds can vary quite a bit, and some may begin sprouting almost immediately.
Eugenia stipitata Eugenia victoriana	2-6 months	M
Garcinia species	1-4 weeks		Plant immediately. Germination is generally slow, but quick. Seeds of some species occasionally produce shoots prior to roots. Warm soil (75-85F) is a must. Don’t overwater but keep moderately moist. Plant in shade.
Helianthus species (Sunflowers)	1-2 weeks	E	Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Inga species	1-3 weeks	E	Usually begin root and shoot growth while still inside the fruit. Plant immediately.
Ixora species	4-12 weeks	M	A bit slow to germinate in our experience. Warm to hot soil seems to work best. Water moderately.
Jaltomata species	2-6 weeks	E	Seeds usually germinate within 2-6 weeks at 75-85F.
Lactuca virosa	2-4 weeks	E	Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. A bit slower to germinate in our experience than typical garden lettuce.
Litchi chinensis	1-4 weeks		Plant immediately. Do not dry. Seeds generally begin germination rapidy in moist, warm (75-90F) soil.
Luffa species	2-6 weeks	E	Warm (75-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. Generally a bit slower to germinate than common melons.
Macadamia species	1-5 months	M	Pre-soaking speeds germination. Also consider scarification (cutting) of hard outer shell to allow water to penetrate the interior. If scarification is performed, extra care must be kept to make sure the soil is sterile so fungus and bugs will not eat the seed kernel.
Malpighia species	3-12 months	H-VH	Very erratic and slow germination. Some seeds may germinate quickly, others may take up to 12 months and longer. Plant in moderately moist soil, at 70-85F. Use well drained soil and do not overwater.
Marlierea species	4-16 weeks	E-M	Variable, some seeds sprout within a few weeks, others take much longer.
Morinda citrifolia	6-12 months	M	Reliable, though very slow germination. Minimum time required is usually 6 months. Soil needs to be warm (75-90F) and moderately moist.
Ocimium species (Basil)	1-4 weeks	E	Warm (70-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Papaver species (Poppies)	1-4 weeks	E	Warm (65-80F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. Hot temperatures sometimes inhibit germination.
Passiflora species	3 weeks- 8 months	M	Variable. Warm water pre-soak is highly recommended. Some people will soak in very warm, (+140F) water for a short period of time to break dormancy, although care should be taken not to kill the seed embryo. Seeds tend to be killed around 170-180F. Once dormancy is broken, seeds may germinate within 3-12 weeks. Seeds with delayed breaking of dormancy generally take 3-8 months to germinate.
Physalis species	2-6 weeks	E	Seeds usually germinate within 2-6 weeks at 75-85F.
Psidium species	1 week- 4 months	E-M	Variable, some seeds sprout within 1-3 weeks, others take much longer. Soil must be at 70-85F for reliable germination results.
Puya species		M	Varying germination times. Use warm soil (75-85F) and lightly water. Seeds are prone to rot. Water when soil surface begins to dry.
Ribes species	3-12 months	M-H	Extremely variable and often difficult. Seeds of most species benefit from cold stratification storage at 34-40F for several weeks prior to planting. Seeds are very slow to germinate and tend to show highly erratic germination times.
Rubus species	3-12 months	M-H	Extremely variable and often difficult. Seeds of most species benefit from cold stratification storage at 34-40F for several weeks prior to planting. Seeds are very slow to germinate and tend to show highly erratic germination times.
Sapindus species	1-4 months	E-M	Seeds have a hard seed coat; some sources suggest scarifying. We have had luck either way. Use warm (75-85F) soil.
Solanum melongena	2-6 weeks	E	Seeds usually germinate within 2-6 weeks at 75-85F.
Solanum quitoense	4-8 weeks	E	Seeds usually germinate within 2-6 weeks at 75-85F.
Solanum sessiliflorum	4-8 weeks	E	Seeds usually germinate within 2-6 weeks at 75-85F.
Solanum uporo	2 weeks – 4 months	E	Variable. Use warm (75-90F) soil. Seeds can go into a sort of dormancy. Warmth and humidity speeds germination.
Synsepalum dulcificum	1 week – 3 months		Germination often begins quickly but can be extremely slow when it starts. May take a few weeks for roots to begin to develop and longer for a shoot to break the soil surface.
Syzygium species	1-4 weeks		Tropical ones tend to have seeds that must be planted immediately upon harvest, and will usually begin growing roots within days.e.g.S. aromaticum, S. mallacense Subtropical species, or marginally hardy tropical species, have seeds that can often be stored a few months, and usually break dormancy in warm soil. Most will begin root growth in a few weeks, although shoot growth can take a bit longer.e.g.S. cordatum, cuminii, jambos, oleosum, paniculatum
Theobroma species	1 week – 1 month		Seeds cannot be stored and should be planted immediately. Do not expose to temperatures below 50F. Seeds sprout best at 75-90F, with high humidity.
Ugni species	3 weeks- 4 months	M	Variable, some seeds sprout within a few weeks, but generally take quite a bit longer.
Vaccinium species	1-12 months	M-H	In general, Vaccinium, show very slow and erratic germination. Cold stratification for most species is helpful. Stratify for 2-4 months at 36-42F (refrigerator). For many species, the germination rate increases the longer the stratification. Soil need to be at 60F or above, preferably near 70F. Germination generally does not occur with soil temperatures below 55F. The seeds are very small, so care should be taken to keep soil adequately moist so seeds don’t dry out.
Zizyphus species	1-6 months	M	It is recommended to carefully cut, or crack open the hard seed coat.

Vegetable Seeds (Detailed Instructions)

Species	Germination Time	Seed Depth	Soil Temp	Notes
Artichokes	2-4 weeks	1/4-1/2″	70-80F	Artichoke seeds are most commonly planted indoors for outdoor transplant. Artichokes grow best in cooler areas and plants will need at least two weeks of 32-50F temperatures to properly set buds, so plan accordingly. Sowing seeds: In milder winter areas where temperatures do not drop below 15F, seeds can be planted in the fall season for a spring harvest. In mild or cold winter areas, plant seeds in the spring, for fall harvest. Seeds should be sown in small containers or flats, planted at 1/4-1/2″ deep. Use a well-drained, sterile potting mix. Seeds germinate best with soil temperatures at 70-80F. Keep soil moderately moist, do not overwater or let soil completely dry out. Germination time under proper conditions runs about 2-4 weeks. Transplanting, Care of Seedlings: Once sprouted, seedlings should be allowed to mature for up to 6-8 weeks before transplanting. Transplant to garden in well-drained soil and protect young plants from freezing temperatures. Make sure to transplant so young plants will receive a minimum of two weeks of cool weather, which will promote budding. Thin plants to 2-3′ and rows to 3-4′. Water regularly.
Beans	1-2 weeks	1/2-1″	70-90F	Bean seeds are generally some of the easiest seeds to sprout. Beans can be planted directly in the ground once the soil has sufficiently warmed, or started in small containers (either indoors or outdoors) for transplanting when plants grow larger. Sowing seeds: Plant seeds in well-drained, sterile soil at 1/2-1″ deep. Keep soil moderately moist and do not let completely dry out. While beans usually germinate quickly, take some care not to over water soil. Non-sterile soils, if over watered, can promote the growth of fungus or pests which may damage the germinating seed. Plant outdoors once the danger of frost has past or in small containers for a later transplant. Care of seedlings: Grow plants 2″ apart, in rows 24-36″ apart. Pole beans will need some type of support, so use a trellis, twine netting, or some similar structure. Plant seeds every 2-3 weeks for continuous production throughout the warmer months. Estimated germination time under optimal conditions: 7-14 days.
Corn	1-2 weeks	1/2-1″	70-85F	Corn seeds are usually quite easy to germinate with with proper soil temperatures. A good method for germination is to place seeds in small containers, either nursery flats or small pots. Standard potting soils or peat both work fine. If starting seed indoors, plant 3-4 weeks prior to the expected date of last frost. Seedlings should only be planted outside once the danger of frost has past. Plant seeds from 1/2-1″ beneath the soil surface. Gently cover with soil. Keep soil temperature above 70F for best germination results. Cool or cold soils can significantly delay or inhibit germination. Once seedlings have sprouted and grown a few inches tall, they can be transplanted to the ground. Alternatively, seeds can be planted directly in the ground if soil temperatures exceed 60-65F and the danger of frost has past. Once seeds have sprouted, thin plants to 8-12″ apart and rows to 24-30″ apart. Estimated germination time under optimal conditions: 7-14 days.
Cucumbers		1/2″	70-85F	Cucumber seeds are usually pretty easy to germinate, though an occasional variety may take longer than others. Melon seeds enjoy warm germination temperatures, so be sure to plant when adequate heat is available to warm the soil. Sowing seeds. Cucumber seeds should be started in small containers approximately one month prior to the desired outdoor planting date. Cucumber plants are frost sensitive so (in colder areas) be sure to time seed planting so transplanting seedlings takes place after the date of last frost. Sow seeds 1/2″ deep in small containers (up to 3″ pot size). Plant 1-3 seeds per container. Keep soil temperature between 70-85F. If soil temperature cools too much, seeds may germinate slowly or not germinate at all. Water regularly, when the soil surface begins to dry just a bit. Do not overwater seeds as perpetually dripping wet soil can promote the growth of fungus and bacteria which can kill the seed embryo. Most cucumber seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks, though some varieties can take slightly longer. Transplanting. Cucumbers enjoy warm air temperatures and regular watering. The plants also enjoy warm soil temperatures, preferably above 70F. If soil is not warm enough, several techniques can be tried. Covering the soil with black landscape fabric will raise soil temperatures. Cut a small hole for the melon plant. Another method is to amend the soil with 4-6 inches of manure or compost material. Both materials will give off heat as they compost, providing extra warmth to the melon plant roots. There are two main types of cucumbers, vining and bush. Bush cucumbers can be grown without supports and are popular for compact spaces and smaller gardens. The majority of cucumbers are vining cucumbers which need support for optimal growth. Use of a trellis, twining or fencing makes for an easy support structure.
Lettuce	1-2 weeks	1/4-1/2″	55-75F	Lettuce seeds are usually quite easy to sprout. Both the seeds and plants do best in slightly cooler weather, so plan on planting seeds when soil temperatures are below 70F. Sowing seeds. Lettuce is amenable to direct sowing in the ground, but take care to protect for garden pests which will quickly eat or destroy a fragile seedling. For sprouting in containers, choose small containers or flats and plant seeds 1/4-1/2″ deep in loose, well-draining soil. Soil temperature should be kept at 60-70F. Soil temperatures higher than 70F can inhibit germination and temperatures below 50F may do the same. If conditions are too warm but sprouting seeds is still desired, a trick is to put seeds in a wet paper towel, inside a ziplock bag. Put the bag into the refrigerator for 2-3 days then take the seeds out and sow. Properly sown seeds will generally germinate in 7-14 days. Transplant/thinning. For direct sown seeds, thin seedlings to 8-12″ apart, with rows up to 2-3′ apart, to give mature plants room to spread out. For container sown seeds, wait until a few true leaves have developed and carefully transplant to desired location. If sprouted indoors, make sure to harden off seedlings for 3-5 days prior to transplanting. To harden off, move seedlings to a filtered light location outdoors where they can slowly adapt to sunlight and outdoor conditions. Culture. Lettuce needs regular watering. Plants will grow best in loose, well-drained soils. Lettuce is very susceptible to nibbling by garden pests, particularly slugs and snails. Make sure to have proper slug barriers in place if slugs are a problem in your garden. Seeds can usually be stored for a minimum of three years.
Melons		1/2″	75-90F	Melon seeds are usually pretty easy to germinate, though an occasional variety may take longer than others. Melon seeds enjoy warm germination temperatures, so be sure to plant when adequate heat is available to warm the soil. Sowing seeds. Melon seeds should be started in small containers approximately one month prior to the desired outdoor planting date. Melon plants are highly frost sensitive so (in colder areas) be sure to time seed planting so transplanting seedlings takes place after the date of last frost. Sow seeds 1/2″ deep in small containers (up to 3″ pot size). Plant 1-3 seeds per container. Keep soil temperature between 75-90F. If soil temperature cools too much, seeds may germinate slowly or not germinate at all. Water regularly, when the soil surface begins to dry just a bit. Do not overwater seeds as perpetually dripping wet soil can promote the growth of fungus and bacteria which can kill the seed embryo. Most melon seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks, though some varieties can take slightly longer. Transplanting. Melons enjoy warm temperatures and regular watering. Make sure plants don’t dry out. It is common for leaves to droop a bit during warm summer days, so don’t worry so long as the soil still has moisture. The plants enjoy warm soil temperatures, preferably above 70F. If soil is not warm enough, several techniques can be tried. Covering the soil with black landscape fabric will raise soil temperatures. Cut a small hole for the melon plant. Another method is to amend the soil with 4-6 inches of manure or compost material. Both materials will give off heat as they compost, providing extra warmth to the melon plant roots. Most gardeners grow melons directly on the ground, but the plants can be grown on a trellis as well. Make sure to use sturdy support materials as melon plants can grow large and fruits may be heavy. Other Notes. Melon’s will produce both male and female flowers. Male flowers bloom first and will die back, so don’t fret if your plant starts blooming and doesn’t seem to immediately set fruit. It usually takes a few weeks for melons to begin producing female flowers, which can be differentiated from male flowers by a small swelling at their base. When watering, try to avoid watering the leaves. Damp leaves along with warm weather are a perfect environment for fungal growth, which can attack melon leaves.
Peppers	2-6 weeks (C. annuum), 2-10 weeks (C. chinense, C. frutescens, C. pubescens)	1/4-1/2″	75-90F	Start seeds in small containers from 8-10 weeks prior to the last frost date. Plant seeds approximately 1/4-1/2″ deep in moist, well drained potting soil. Most standard soil mixes are suitable for pepper seeds. Soil temperature must be kept at 75-90F for proper germination. Cool soil, particularly at night can inhibit or significantly delay germination. Additionally, overly warm soils, well above 90F, can inhibit germination and provide ideal conditions for seed rot. To keep soil temperature warm, start seeds indoors, in a greenhouse and/or use a seed starting heat mat. Keep soil moderately moist, though not overly, dripping wet. Water soil when the soil surface just begins to dry. Allow proper air circulation for containers. Optionally, seeds can be dipped in a dilute hydrogen peroxide mix (1 tsp hydrogen perioxide per cup water) for one minute to disinfect seeds prior to planting. If your soil or seed sprouting setup is susceptible to mold growth this can be useful to kill mold spores. Once seedlings have sprouted, keep in small containers until a few sets of leaves have developed. Transplant to larger containers or outdoors. If transplanting outdoors, make sure to harden off seedlings by exposing them to only filtered sunlight for up to 1-2 weeks. Thin plants to 3-4 ft and rows to 6-10 ft. Estimated germination time under optimal conditions: 2-6 weeks
Radishes	1-2 weeks	1/4-1/2″	45-70F	Radishes are some of the easiest seeds to germinate. Plant directly in the ground, approximately 1/4″ deep, in loose, moist soil. Soil temperature should be above freezing, at least 45F or higher for germination. Germination may be slower in colder soils. Radishes are fairly cold hardy and can be planted as early as a week prior to the date of last frost. Germination time usually runs about 1-2 weeks under ideal conditions. Once seeds have sprouted, thin plants to 1-2″ apart and rows to 8-12″ apart.
Tomatoes	1-4 weeks	1/4-1/2″	70-85F	1) Prepare for planting. Sprout tomato seeds in small containers, preferably 4″ or smaller. In-ground germination is not recommended. Use a standard potting mix that is well drained. Start seeds in containers approximately 8 weeks prior to the planned set-out date. Plants should ultimately be transplanted to the garden 1-2 weeks after the expected date of last frost.2) Plant seeds. Plant seeds 1/4″ deep in the soil. Cover with soil and water carefully. Overwatering can cause fungal growth which leads to seed rot. Excess water can also bury seeds deep in the soil where they will not be able break the surface. Water when the soil surface just begins to dry. Multiple seeds can be planted in a single starter container, but should be thinned once seedlings appear so only a single plant remains. Seeds do not require light for germination but some light source should be provided for seedlings once they emerge from the soil.3) Germination. Soil should be kept consistently warm, from 70-85F. Cool soils, below about 60-65F, even just at night, will significantly delay or inhibit germination. Additionally, overly warm soils, well above 90F, can inhibit germination and provide ideal conditions for seed rot.4) Care of seedlings. Once a few true leaves have developed, seedlings should be slowly moved outside (if sprouted indoors) to ambient light. Care should be taken not to expose seedlings to direct, scorching sun so plants may need to be hardened off via slow sun exposure. Hardening off can be done using a shaded or filtered light location, as well as protection from strong winds, rain or low humidity. Hardening off time varies, but can take 5-10 days.5) Planting out. Plant in the ground once danger of frost has past and daytime temperatures consistently reach 65F. Plants can be spaced as close as 24″ apart. Germination time: 1-3 weeks under ideal conditions.

Vegetable Seeds (Brief Instructions)

Species	Germination Time	Difficulty	Seed Depth	Soil Temp	Thin Plants to:		Notes
Beans (Phaseolus sp., Vicia sp, Vigna sp.)	1-2 weeks	E					Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Bean, Lima (Phaseolus lunatus)	1-2 weeks	E	1/2-1″	>55F	6″		Seeds can be planted directly in the ground after danger of frost has past. Or, plant indoors in small 3-6″ containers and transplant after 2-3 true leaves appear. Pole-type lima beans need up to 6′ support poles. Optionally, add soil inoculant to encourage maximum yields. Grow in full sun and in well-drained, slightly alkaline soil.
Bitter Melon (Momordica species)	2-6 weeks	E					Warm (75-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. Generally a bit slower to germinate than common melons.
Broccoli	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Brussels Sprouts	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Cabbage	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Carrot (Daucus carota)	1-2 weeks	E	1/4-1/2″	>55F	2″		Warm (>55F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. Seeds can be directly sown in the ground once danger of frost has past. Plant at 1/4-1/2″. Germination generally takes from 1-4 weeks depending on soil temperature. Once seedlings have reached 2″ tall, thin to 1″ apart. Thin again to 2″ apart once seedlings reach 6″ tall. Use well drained, loose soil down to at least 6-7″. Hard and/or clay soils can result in poor growth. Optionally, use potassium rich soil amendments to promote sweet flavor. Avoid too much nitrogen based fertilizer as it can lead to fibrous roots. Plant seeds in a location receiving full sun for at least half the day.
Cauliflower	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Collards	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Corn (Zea species)	1-2 weeks	E					Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Cucumbers (Cucumis sp.)	1-3 weeks	E					Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Gourds (Lagenaria species)	2-6 weeks	E					Warm (75-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. Generally a bit slower to germinate than common melons.
Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)	1-2 weeks	E	1/8-1/4″	55-75F	8-12″		Sow directly outside after danger of frost has past. Once seedlings emerge, thin to 8-12″ when 2-3 true leaves have formed. Alternatively, sow indoors in 2-4″ pots, of up to 3-6 seeds each. Transplant outdoors after 2 weeks, being careful to harden off plants. To harden off, place transplants in a shaded or filtered sun location for 2-3 days. Thin seedlings as above. Lettuce can be grown on and off throughout the year, but does best with air temperatures are in the 55-80F range. Keep plants out of direct sun in warmer areas and during the height of summer.
Onion (Allium sp.)	1-2 weeks	E	1/4-1/2″	55-75F	2-5″		Sow seeds outdoors once soil temperatures reach 55F or warmer. Alternatively, sow indoors in small 3-6″ pots. Transplant outdoors once tops reach 3-4″ high. Thin bunching onion varieties to 2″ apart. Thin bulbous varieties to 5″ apart. Plant in well drained or loose soil. Avoid hard and/or clay soils which may inhibit proper growth.
Pea (Pisum sativum)	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination. One of the easiest seeds to germinate.
Peppers (Capsicum annuum)	1 week- 2 months	E	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Variable. In warm soil (75F), many C. annuum peppers (the most common type) will germinate within a couple of weeks. Tepin and Pequin peppers are the trickiest, generally taking 3-6 months to germinate in warm soil. Do not use acidic soil.
Peppers (Capsicum baccatum)	2 weeks- 2 months	E	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Variable. In warm soil (75F), many will germinate within 2-4 weeks.
Peppers (Capsicum chinense)	3 weeks- 3 months	E-M	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Variable. Chinense species (e.g. Habanero’s) generally take longer to germinate than most common peppers. Germination is slower, but usually consistant after a few weeks. Keep soil warm to very warm (75-90F) for better germination. Do not use acidic soil. Some Chinense peppers, in particular Bhut Jolokia, Naga Morich and related peppers are very slow to germinate, averaging 1-4 months germination time.
Peppers Capsicum eximium)	3-12 weeks	E-M	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Variable. Use warm (75-90F) soil. Seeds are typically slower than standard garden peppers to germinate and may take up to a few months. Warmth and humidity speeds germination.
Peppers (Capsicum frutescens)	2 weeks- 2 months	E	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Variable. In warm soil (75F), many will germinate within 2-4 weeks.
Peppers (Capsicum pubescens)	1-3 months	E	1/2″	75-85F	12-18″	24-30″	Manzano type peppers usually take up to 2-3 months to germinate under ideal conditions.
Pumpkins (Cucurbita species)	1-3 weeks	E					Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Radish	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.
Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)	1-2 weeks	E					Moderately warm (60-70F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Squash (Cucurbita species)	1-3 weeks	E					Warm (65-85F), wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination.
Tomatoes	1-4 weeks	E	1/8-1/2″	70-85F	24″		Seeds generally germinate fairly quickly in warm soil (>75F). In colder soil (<65F), they may be extremely slow to germinate or not germinate at all. Start seeds indoors, 5-7 weeks prior to outdoor planting date, in 3-6" pots. Use a well drained, sterile, moist soil mix. Do not fertilize. Germination time is highly dependent on soil temperature and the most common reason for slow or no germination is cool or cold soil. Consistent, 24 hour bottom heat from a heating mat is recommended for best germination results. Transplant once danger of frost has past and daytime temperatures consistently reach 65F. Harden plants off for several days when moving outdoors by leaving seedlings in a sheltered, shady or filtered sun location. Set plants out 24" apart.
Turnip	1-2 weeks	E					Wet soil is usually sufficient for fast germination within days to a week or two.

Difficulty Key Note that a number of seeds are rated at different difficulties, these are subjective ratings based on our and others experience germinating these seeds. Most people, following proper directions should be able to germinate easy and moderate seeds without much trouble.

Recalcintrant seeds are generally easy to germinate-because many are in the process of germinating when they are harvested-but must be kept at proper conditions. Recalcitrant seeds tend to be highly picky about cool temperatures, low humidities and lack of water. E = Easy (fast, requires little pretreament or experience with seeds, may germinate under widely variable conditions) M = Moderate (slower to germinate (possibly a month or more), but still easy under typical conditions and requires minimal experience germinating seeds) H = Hard (slow to germinate, requires proper conditions, may benefit from heating mat or controlled conditions; may require pretreatment or special treatment e.g.

stratification) VH = Very Hard (extremely slow or erratic to germinate, needs controlled conditions) : Seed Germination Tips and Instructions

Skye Skinner