How long will it take for floor heating to warm up? An underfloor heating system will take anywhere from 30minutes to 4hours to heat up depending on a various factors. The main factors which impact heat up times include:
Floor construction Amount of heat loss Level of insulation in the floor and building Thickness & type of floor finish Type of substrate Ambient temperature
Sufficient insulation, under the heating, such as Econoboard will greatly reduce heat up times by reducing the downward heat loss. A well insulated underfloor heating system can be up to 50% more efficient than an uninsulated system. A table of estimated heat-up times can be seen below, which really highlights the differences between an uninsulated substrate and an insulated substrate. : How long will it take for floor heating to warm up?
Contents
- 1 Why doesn’t my underfloor heating floor feel warm?
- 2 Should underfloor heating feel warm to touch?
- 3 Is underfloor heating enough for winter?
- 4 Is it cheaper to turn off underfloor heating?
Why does underfloor heating take so long to heat?
What are the factors that affect heat up times of Underfloor Heating? – Now that we have cleared up the common myth, lets look at some of the factors that will affect your heat up times. Floor Build Up Following on from what we have discussed above, the floor build-up and where the Underfloor Heating is installed in that build-up will affect the heat up times of the Underfloor Heating.
- Simply put the lower down in the layers of flooring that the Underfloor Heating is installed, the longer it will take to heat up.
- As mentioned, an Inslab system can take 1-2 days to heat up.
- A system installed in the screed will also take longer to heat through verses a system installed directly below the tiles.
So, the higher up the floor heating is installed in the floor build-up the faster the heat up times will be however bear in mind that a screed or slab will create a heat bank and hold the heat for longer for you. Substrate Secondly, the substrate on which the heating is installed will play a part in affecting the heat up times.
- The substrate would normally be either concrete or timber construction.
- A concrete substrate is typically colder and less resistive to heat so the heat up time s will be longer than a timber floor.
- A timber floor on stilts with a void below will increase your heat up times, as it will mean the subfloor is colder and heat will be lost downwards into the a cold void.
Read on to our point regarding insulation to understand this further. Level of insulation The level of insulation in the room and the floor is probably one of the single biggest factors that will affect the heat up times of your Underfloor Heating. Heat, as opposed to hot air, moves equally in every direction.
- This means that the heat moving away from the heating cable will travel downwards as well as upwards.
- The more heat you lose downwards less effective your system will be, and it will also tak e longer to heat up.
- Insulation below the floor or heating will substantially reduce the heat up times of electric Underfloor Heating.
Insulating your floor could be done in several ways as outlined below:
Below the slab – insulating between the ground and the slab before the slab is poured. This will mean the slab will not be as cold regardless of where the Underfloor Heating is installed in your floor build-up. Below a timber substrate – we just mentioned about a timber substrate with a cold void below, by insulating the underside of the timber you will greatly improve efficiency and heat up times of your underfloor heating. Directly below your floor heating – our econoboard (link to product page) products are laid onto your substrate with the floor heating installed directly over the top. This acts as a thermal break to minimise the heat going down into the substrate and will dramatically improve the heat up time.
Its not just the insulation of the floor though. The level of insulation in the room will also affect the heat up time. The lower the level of insulation will mean that colder the room will be and the more prone it is to heat loss. If the room is constantly losing heat due to insufficient insulation the heat up times will increase as the heat generated is constantly being lost.
No insulation in the walls, the ceiling, windows etc will all cause heat loss. Insulation, often seen as an additional expense, is one of the most important factors for affecting heat up or cool down times as well as the running costs in any home. It may seem like a large up front cost but it absolutely pays its self-off over time, even if you don’t have floor heating? Ambient temperature & set temperature Another factor to consider is the ambient temperature in the room.
The colder the room is, the longer it will take to heat up. This links back directly to the point above about the level of insulations in the room. If you are measuring the time it takes to reach your set temperature, you will find this affects the heat up time.
We often see people setting their floor heating in an excess of 26°c and the floor heating will struggle to reach this temperature and will certainly increase the heat up time. Unless you have a very well insulated room you will struggle to achieve these temperature levels. A comfortable level to run your floor heating at is 21-24°c.
It is also recommended to set your off temperature at around 15°c to ensure that even though the heating is effectively off, the heating would still come on to prevent the room dropping below this temperature, which will reduce the temperature difference that the heating is trying to heat up & therefore decrease your heat up time.
- Thickness & type of floor finish The thickness and type of floor finish will also affect the heat up times.
- The thicker the flooring the longer the heating will take to pass through and heat the room.
- The floor finish will also have an influence on the heat up time, some floors are more resistive to heat passing though such as timber and carpet as opposed to tiles.
Also, a tiled or stone floor is a colder floor finish and will therefore feel warmer quicker. The Underfloor Heating system The actual system that you have installed in the floor will affect the heat up times. Most commonly this would be if a 150W or a 200W system has been used.
Why doesn’t my underfloor heating floor feel warm?
Floor isn’t getting up to the desired temperature – If your electric underfloor heating isn’t warm enough, you may need to adjust your thermostat settings or check the system’s power output. This could also be down to the insulation in your home – check this before installation.
Should the floor feel warm with underfloor heating?
If this is the first time you’ve had underfloor heating, you may wonder why your floor doesn’t feel hot. Don’t panic, your floor won’t feel anywhere near as hot as traditional radiator but that doesn’t mean it isn’t heating your room.
Is it better to leave underfloor heating on all the time?
Should Your Underfloor Heating be Left On All Day? There are many benefits to having underfloor heating installed in your property. Not only will it allow you more control over the rooms that receive a certain amount of heat at particular hours of the day, but it will also provide you with direct, energy efficient heat whenever you require it.
With a programmable thermostat connected to the underfloor heating system, you can control both the temperature and time of operation just as you would with a regular central heating system. However, if it’s especially cold, you might want to leave the underfloor heating on all day long. Is it safe to do this? Here, we take a closer look at whether leaving the heating system on all day could damage your system.
You can rest assured that leaving an underfloor heating system on all day long without causing any unwanted problems or damage to the system. In fact, when the weather is especially cold, it could even be a good idea to leave the system switched on. It will encourage faster warming up times and better efficiency, so you’ll feel warmer for longer.
- As long as you opt for a well-built, properly installed, high-quality underfloor heating system, you can be confident of leaving the system switched on all day every day without any problems at all.
- Although it might be a good idea to leave your underfloor heating system switched on all day long during the colder months, it will probably be a better idea to have a thermostat in place to control your heating the rest of the time.
You can maximise the effect of your electric underfloor system by opting for two “On” times and two “Off” times with a setback temperature around 4 degrees Celsius lower than your ideal comfort temperature. This will ensure your room temperature doesn’t drop too low so your room will heat more rapidly back to your comfort level when necessary.
- You should switch the heating system on a couple of hours before using the room to ensure the best comfort.
- This can easily be achieved with a programmable thermostat.
- Simply set the “On” time for a couple of hours before you get up or arrive home from work and you’ll experience complete cosiness whenever you’re at home.
One option to maximise your heating efficiency and to ensure your complete comfort at all times while also reducing your energy bills is to opt for a smart thermostat to control your electric underfloor heating system. A smart thermostat allows you to control your heating no matter where you may be through your smartphone so you can easily turn your heating on from your work desk, from the bus or even while you’re away on holiday if you hear about an unexpected icy spell on the news and want to be sure that your home won’t get too cold in your absence.
Is it cheaper to keep underfloor heating on all day?
Cons of leaving electric underfloor systems on – The major disadvantage of leaving electric underfloor heating on is the overall increase in costs for your electric bill during the winter months. Also since they heat up faster, leaving them on all day just increases the electricity bill.
Does underfloor heating use a lot of electricity?
How much energy does underfloor heating use? – The amount and type of energy your UFH uses will depend on the kind of system you have installed. There are two systems you can go for: wet and dry. A wet system will work in a similar way to a radiator. Water is heated by your boiler or heat pump and pushed through pipes that have been laid under your floor.
In contrast, a dry system uses electricity to heat wires. In both cases, a layer of screed is poured over the top to produce a flat surface for your flooring to be installed. This means that a wet system is heated via your current heating system (gas boiler, heat pump, etc.) and a dry system will use electricity, so each configuration could use different amounts of energy and will therefore vary in cost.
Other factors are involved too, including the size of the room the UFH is installed in, the quality of your insulation and how high your ceilings are. Because of these variables, it’s hard to determine how much energy UFH systems use. For dry UFH, the power is specified in watts (W) per square metre (W/m2).
This figure shows how much electricity will be used per hour if the system is left on all the time. A 100-150 W/m2 system should be more than sufficient for the modern average domestic family home. This means that the system uses up to around 150 W per one metre squared. If the UFH is only on for half the time, then half the electricity is being used.
For example, if the system is running for 12 hours a day (and not 24), you’ll effectively be using around 75 W/m2. Therefore, a bedroom that is 12 m2 will use around 900 W (or 0.9 kW) per hour. This is based on your insulation being up to regulations with the correct floor insulation around the wiring too.
Wet UFH is powered by your central heating system, so the amount of energy it uses will depend on the size of your heating appliance. If your gas boiler is sized at 24 kW, it will use around 24 kW per hour. Therefore, if your boiler is on for five hours per day, it will use around 120 kWh. This will supply your whole home with heating and hot water, and not just the UFH.
Heat pumps are sized a little differently. They use a coefficient of performance (CoP) measurement that determines how much energy needs to be inputted to get a particular output. For example, a heat pump with a CoP of four can create four kW of heat from one kW of electricity.
If the average household requires 12,000 kWh annually for heating, then a heat pump with a CoP of four will use around 3,000 kWh of electricity. UFH will likely use less energy than standard radiators. This is because these systems are more efficient at circulating the heat around your home, and therefore they can run at a lower temperature.
Whereas radiators may require the water to be heated to around 70 ℃, UFH can perform at temperatures as low as 30 ℃.
Should tiles feel warm with underfloor heating?
Tiled floors are the most common floor finishes to have over electric underfloor heating and for good reason. Electric underfloor heating is more commonly found in bathrooms and kitchens which are most commonly tiled, but tiles are also great conductors of heat which means you’ll feel the warmth faster.
Does underfloor heating warm the whole room?
2. Energy usage – (Image credit: Future PLC/Lizzie Orme) Although underfloor heating operates at a lower temperature, it’s capable of achieving the same level of warmth and comfort throughout your home. This is where it helps you save energy, ‘UFH systems are estimated to use 15-40% less energy than a radiator,’ says Luciana Kola, marketing manager at Uponor,
This sustainable benefit stems from the fact that UFH works by warming an entire room evenly. This is more efficient than traditional systems like radiators, where heat is lost by the air rising in only one area.’ The even spread of heat also means that you can rule out having hot spots and chilly corners within the same room, instead maintaining the same level of comfort throughout.
To ensure that heat is distributed evenly across the whole space, effective installation of your system is vital. For instance, pipework must be laid at neat, regular intervals – irregular spacing is therefore a key red flag to look out for during the installation process.
How do I know if my underfloor heating is working properly?
Check the resistance values for your heating cable – A resistance test can be carried out on your underfloor heating system to check that the heating cables are ok and have not been cut short, extended or damaged. Each heating cable is manufactured with a specific resistance value that is designed to provide the right heat output.
If the cable length is changed, the resistance value changes which will have an adverse effect on the performance of the heating system. To test the resistance you need to know which heating mat or cable was installed and what the expected resistance value is. You will find the resistance value on the packaging label, the cold tail label and detailed on the test label in the instruction guide which should have been given to the home-owner as part of the warranty handover.
If you don’t have a record of the resistance value we can usually work out which product was installed by looking at invoices, plans or purchase receipts. With this information we can tell what the resistance should be. Once you know the expected resistance value you can compare that with the tested values.
- To test the resistance you will need to isolate the electrical supply, remove the thermostat from the wall and remove the live and neutral heating cables from their terminals.
- Connect each cable to a clip on your test meter and set the meter to the correct ohms setting.
- For resistance values under 200 Ohms you can use the 200 Ohms setting.
If you’re expecting a reading more than 200 Ohms, you’ll need to use the 2000 ohms setting. Some meters have different settings our auto-ranging features so if you are in doubt, refer to the meter instructions and use the setting that corresponds to your expected resistance value.
Should underfloor heating feel warm to touch?
Homeowner FAQs – How do I increase / decrease the floor sensor? Floor sensors are used for two reasons: a) to protect sensitive floor finishes from overheat, and b) to control the floor temperature in wet rooms where the thermostat is installed outside of the room.
- Where used to protect sensitive floor finishes, we strongly recommend you do not adjust this yourself – please contact the supplier to ensure this is carried out correctly.
- When used in wet rooms, the thermostat will need to be configured to read the floor sensor as the primary form of temperature control, then simply increase / decrease the temperature set point to achieve your comfort settings.
How do I ensure the flow temperature is correct and that enough heat is being provided by the boiler? Before checking this, ensure a thermostat has been calling for heat for at least 30mins. If the boiler is functioning correctly, hot water will be supplied to the manifold and the manifold bar will be warm (possibly hot) to touch.
If there is no heat at the manifold, the boiler is not providing hot water. Please consult your plumbing engineer. Why isn’t my underfloor heating working? There is a misconception that the floor finish should be very warm to touch when the UFH is operating – please be aware that this is not the case.
Due to the size of the surface area of the floor, the floor temperature will only be slightly warmer than the air temperature to be able to achieve your comfort settings. If in doubt, please check your thermostat settings are correctly set up. As a physical test, turn up a thermostat so that it is calling for heat, within 30mins you will be able observe water flowing through the manifold flow meters (on the top of the manifold) and feel warmth coming through from the boiler.
- If neither of these happen within 1hr, please call us to carry out some simple checks over the phone.
- Pumpset codes, what do the different codes and lights mean? When the pump is running, LED 1 is green.
- The four yellow LEDs indicate the current power consumption (1 = low, 2 = medium low, 3 = medium high, 4 = high).
When LED 1 is flashing green the pump is on standby. If LED 1 is red, the pump has detected an alarm. Please contact us to identify the issue. Do you offer a maintenance agreement? Due to the nature of underfloor heating being a concealed product, not prone to corrosion and with minimal moving parts, maintenance contracts are not normally necessary.
What is the downside of underfloor heating?
Underfloor heating cons –
Cost – The initial cost can be considerable and the installation of the system can cause a lot of upheaval in your home. In older buildings, creating the right conditions under the floor may also be pricey. Time – Underfloor heating takes longer to fire up than a radiator, so you have to use a timer to predict when you want heat in certain rooms. Furniture – You can’t use it under some items of furniture or fittings, which restrict how you set up your home. Large, heavy items may have to go altogether. Installation – If you go for a water-based system, you’ll need to pay a professional to install it. Meanwhile, smaller systems may not heat enough of the room and require radiators anyway.
Is underfloor heating enough for winter?
8 Misconceptions about Underfloor Heating What is unknown is often misunderstood. And there are many misconceptions about what underfloor heating is and how it works. It’s about time we set the record straight once and for all. We’ll show you how this sustainable and cost-efficient system works and why it would be an excellent choice for your home.
Before we go into the myths, let’s first look into the different types of underfloor heating. Currently, there are two types of underfloor heating systems: electrical systems and hydraulic systems, which run on hot water. The hydraulic system also comes in two different infrastructures known as a dry system and a wet system, and the difference between the two is how the pipes are set up For water systems, the pipes are in the screed while in dry systems, the pipes are in the floorboards to serve as a heat conductor.
You’ll usually find the ‘wet’ hydraulic variant with new construction projects, while the dry version and the electrical systems are best suited for renovations. Now that you know a little bit of the technical side of underfloor heating, it’s time to look into the misconceptions surrounding it. It’s true that the price to install underfloor heating is 30% more expensive than traditional radiators. But underfloor heating is an investment that pays off in the in the long run. Because the system is more energy efficient and requires less maintenance, users will find their energy bills and overall system costs are much lower than traditional radiators.
Of course, electric floor heating runs on electricity, but the hydraulic system runs on hot water and central heating. There’s also an option to connect an underfloor system to a heat pump. While the heat pump does require a bit of electricity, it also relies on renewable energy.
Because underfloor heating operates at a constant low temperature, choosing to add a heat pump to your system is an ideal choice. While electric floor heating works almost as quickly as radiators, hydraulic systems react a bit more slowly. But that doesn’t mean you need to suffer through cold temperatures.
It’s important to see how you can set up your system to best suit your lifestyle and keep your interior at a comfortable temperature. For example, if you have a hydraulic system, you can change the settings to make sure the room temperature only drops three degrees during the night.
This may come as a bit of surprise, but you can actually install underfloor heating beyond the floor. You can also install it in the walls or ceilings to heat rooms even faster. Overall, underfloor heating does not take up extra space, so you can perfectly integrate it into any modern interior.
Underfloor heating prevents the circulation of dust particles that can cause allergies or sickness. Homeowners can also take advantage of the better humidity and a healthier environment free of dust mites and mould, which is especially helpful for people who experience allergies or respiratory issues.
: 8 Misconceptions about Underfloor Heating
What is the best temperature to set underfloor heating?
What Temperature Should Underfloor Heating Be Set At? – This is a common question and the answer depends on a number of factors. These include the type of floor covering, the type of underfloor heating system, the overall room size and of course your personal preference.
Is underfloor heating enough to heat a house?
Underfloor heating pros and cons –
Underfloor heating pros | Underfloor heating cons |
No cold spots or draughts: The way UFH works, heating from the floor up (giving an even heating profile free from draughts and cold spots), and the controllability of UFH, means that UFH heats rooms perfectly. Warm water is pumped through the pipework, from the manifold(s), gently warming the floor, creating a comfortable environment. | Initial purchasing cost can be higher: Some UFH systems can have a higher initial purchasing cost. This can be because UFH can require more parts and has a longer installation process than radiators. Though, you will generally save money in the long run with an UFH system. |
UFH is controlled by thermostats: You would have a thermostat per room or zone to set your preferred temperature. UFH is split into zones, making it more controllable than radiators. | May be new to you: Everyone is familiar with radiators and knows how to use them. An underfloor heating system may require a bit of time to understand and get used to. |
At least 25% more energy efficient: UFH will heat your home without the need for any additional heating. UFH covers a large surface area, it uses lower water temperatures than a radiator and is more efficient – up to 40% more efficient when paired with a heat pump than radiators. | |
Warm heated floor: One of the biggest benefits of UFH is the feel of the warmth underfoot. It adds a luxurious feel to the home. No more cold tiles or hard flooring. | |
Frees up wall space: Because strong and flexible plastic pipework is buried within the floor, it is a practically invisible heating system. The heart of the system, which is the manifold, is stored away in a cupboard. | |
No exposed hot surfaces or sharp corners: Being hidden also means that UFH is safer than radiators. No exposed hot or sharp surfaces or pipework that can cause injury. | |
Complete interior design freedom: As UFH is hidden away and no space is taken up by radiators in the home, you have more wall space to play with. There are no restrictions on where you can place furniture. No big white radiators to spoil decor. UFH can be installed in all types of property. Even during renovations. They can be installed on ground and upper floors, and work with boilers and heat pumps. There is no need to change your current boiler. |
Is it OK to turn off underfloor heating in summer?
Can you turn off underfloor heating in summer? – Underfloor heating can be turned off in the summer months to preserve energy and maximise comfort. However, if you own a water-based underfloor heating solution, be sure to switch the underfloor heating on for 15-20 minutes every couple of weeks to identify any faults and prevent the system from sticking.
Should I turn off underfloor heating in summer?
Underfloor Heating Not Working After Summer – Generally, an electric underfloor heating system will not be affected by switching it off for the summer but occasionally there could be an issue when firing up a water-based system that has been off for some time.
Very often the problem is a malfunctioning thermostat or a circulating pump problem. In most cases, you have to simply reset a thermostat. If you’re not sure how to do this then refer to the manufacturer’s user guide. If the problem is the circulating pump then you will need to consult an electrician. In some cases, when a UFH system fails, it’s down to a pin valve, which is sticking.
This valve is located below the actuator. Remove the actuator and check that the pin valve is free to move. If the actuator is stuck down, it can be freed using a silicone spray or WD40. Alternatively, you can use a pair of long-nose pliers to try and free the pin.
Is underfloor heating more expensive than radiators?
Underfloor Heating vs Radiators: Installation Cost – The first point of consideration is how much both will cost to be installed. In most cases, UFH systems will be more expensive to install than radiators and come at a higher purchasing cost. This is in part because they will usually require more parts and the installation process itself is likely to be longer.
If you’re planning on fitting underfloor heating as part of a renovation project, meaning the system is a “retrofit”, this is also likely to have an impact on the price because the work will be more labour-intensive. Overall, this gives an immediate advantage to radiators, which usually require fewer parts and can often simply be upgraded or moved during renovation work.
This makes them an excellent choice if you are working on a limited budget. However, the costs involved with installing UFH systems are often later offset by the savings they provide. To learn more about this, please take a look at the information we’ve provided on,
Is it cheaper to turn off underfloor heating?
It is a good idea to leave underfloor heating switched on constantly during the colder winter months in particular. By leaving the underfloor heating system turned on, better levels of efficiency and faster warm up times will result. Basically, your home will heat up to a comfortable temperature faster.
Do I need radiators with underfloor heating?
Will I need radiators if I have underfloor heating? ); $dispatch(‘mobile-search-menu-opened’) }, closeMobileSearch() } x-show=open x-on:open-mobile-search.window=openMobileSearch() x-cloak=> Please or to access all these features Top Bottom Fetasalad · 04/08/2021 18:55 Having kitchen/diner redone. We’re having wet under floor heating. Will I also need to have a couple of radiators for winter or is the floor heating enough? The room is 7m x 5m. OP posts: Lentil63 · 04/08/2021 19:06 I can’t give you a definitive answer but I should have thought your installer could. We’re having a house built with wet underfloor heating and I am confident it will be sufficient to keep us toasty in the winter. Livingintheclouds · 04/08/2021 19:38 No, what’s the point if you need rads too? We had it in our kitchen/family room and no need for anything else. user16395699 · 04/08/2021 19:40 I was reading something yesterday that suggested the point of underfloor heating was so that you didn’t need radiators and could free up more space. Zarene · 04/08/2021 19:47 No need for radiators in any UFH house I’ve ever seen! Our downstairs is all UFH as are the bathrooms upstairs, and it’s all toasty. Trethew · 04/08/2021 19:56 No you won’t need radiators in a room with UFH Ozanj · 04/08/2021 20:31 No you shouldn’t need them and if your fitter suggests them be suspicious about the quality of the UFH. Just be forewarned that Porcelain is the best conducter for heat so if you really want maximum fuel efficiency go for tile floor. PlanDeRaccordement · 04/08/2021 20:33 No. Normally underfloor heat is enough for ground floor. You’ll only need radiators for upper storeys. (In summer you can run cold water through it and it will keep house cool.) macshoto · 04/08/2021 20:34 You shouldn’t need radiators, but you do need to appreciate that the way you use UFH is different to other forms of heating. UFH works best such that it is on most of the time and only varying room temperature a small amount during the day. It responds much more slowly than radiators do, but on the upside you only need to heat the floor to a much lower temperature. The nature of UFH is a gentle all pervading warmth rather than spot heat. Summerhillsquare · 04/08/2021 20:43 No. The key factor is how much heat is escaping from the room. Your installer should have calculated heat loss which dictates the heat capacity of your system (in btu). If the room is well insulated, a lower heat output is needed. Only if it’s basically a shed would you need extra heating. And if it’s basically a shed I’d advise spending your money on insulation instead! Fetasalad · 04/08/2021 21:22 OP posts: Bargebill19 · 04/08/2021 21:29 Neighbour says watch the weather forecast! As hers takes two days to reach temperature from cold and the same to cool down. It’s a large house all ufh but stone floors downstairs and carpet upstairs. New build. Roundearth · 04/08/2021 21:32 you shouldn’t really turn underfloor heating up or down.
U keep it at a set temperature always Bargebill19 · 04/08/2021 21:54 I think when it’s approaching -15 or hitting the high 20s – they can turn that dial!! Roundearth · 04/08/2021 22:14 that’s what setting the thermostat is for, you don’t fiddle with it Bargebill19 · 04/08/2021 22:19 Exactly what the do do!!!!,
When it’s forecast to be cold they turn the thermostat up. Wine it’s forecast to be hot, they turn it down. The thing is it’s NOT instant like gas heating. It takes two days for the heat to permeate. Roundearth · 04/08/2021 23:21 they should have been given instructions on how to run it.
You don’t turn underfloor on and off for that very reason you just said about it taking ages. the thermostat should be set at the temperature you want a room to be everyday regardless of what’s happening outside, you don’t turn the temperature you want the room to be up just because today it’s cold outside.
you have it set always at say 21 degrees through the day hours and timed to be 17 at night (or whatever your preference is) Bargebill19 · 04/08/2021 23:29 @Roundearth, They aren’t turning the heating on and off. I never said that in any of my posts. However they are adjusting the thermostats up and down between 2- 4 degrees other than summer when the heating is off for 4-5 months.
It still takes 2 days for it to take effect. Hence looking at weather forecasts in advance. It’s a simple fact – gas or other heating is much more responsive. Ufh is not. Our outside temperature can go from 0 – -15 in the space of 5 days.18 degrees inside might be nice at the beginning of the week, but not enough at the need of the week.
To heat up the house from cold – it would take much much longer. BlackAlys · 05/08/2021 08:14 @PlanDeRaccordement No. Normally underfloor heat is enough for ground floor. You’ll only need radiators for upper storeys. (In summer you can run cold water through it and it will keep house cool.) What??? Do people do this? Mum5net · 05/08/2021 11:24 Will heating the 7m x 5m room add to OP’s heating bill dramatically? My friend has just bough a flat that is 1970s and 70metre square and is worried about the cost. Fetasalad · 05/08/2021 12:54 @Mum5net from what I understand wet underfloor heating is more economical that turning radiators on and off as the floor heating should keep the room at a constant temperature. Electric is cheaper and easier to fit but costs a lot to run. TheLovleyChebbyMcGee · 05/08/2021 13:01 We have a heated towel rail as a radiator in our bathroom that has UFH, its livley and toasty in there when both are on. We were worried about towels drying. But we switch the electric UFH off from around March to October t be more economical. Our cats are so disappointed its not on all the time! TobyHouseMan · 05/08/2021 14:51 If you keep it on all the time then you should be fine. We don’t as we have a fireplace – we put the UFH in our lounge on when we feel like it and it can take 5 hours to come up to temp. So it depends on how you use the thing. Our lounge is very well insulated so if it’s cold and the UFH is off we just light a fire. Once or twice we’ve plugged in an electric heater until the UFH came up to temp. PaulaSmith1 · 05/08/2021 16:07 Ask a/the manufacturer of underfloor heating system – if you give them the dimensions of your room they will be able to tell you how many BTus are needed. Allow a little extra so you should have some spare capacity just in case. I sent our suppliers a sketch of the room marked up with door sizes, room height etc and they were very helpful. Mum5net · 05/08/2021 21:37 My friend is getting a heating consultant to come show him the figures. OP your new room will be such a benefit to you, Sunflowergirl1 · 06/08/2021 02:48 @Roundearth “you shouldn’t really turn underfloor heating up or down. u keep it at a set temperature always” We have had Wet UFH for 4 years now. Ours is turned down at night and during certain parts of the day but in effect it goes off. Ie On 4am and off 6am On 3pm and off 6-7pm During the depth of winter if the temp drops below 19 degrees it kicks in. Normal room temp when I’m house is 24 degrees. Found very inexpensive to run. When it switches off at night the temp will drop to min of 23 degrees before we go to bed so last ages after turning off. Therefore underlines the insulation effect as well as the lingering heat Radiators wouldn’t work iff connected to the UFH controller as times would all be wrong but could be iff connected to the other house control. However, why would you? One aspect of UFH I love is no wall,radiators Please create an account To comment on this thread you need to create a Mumsnet account. Math.max( 25, Math.floor( 0.15 * (type === ‘x’ ? window.innerWidth || document.body.clientWidth : window.innerHeight || document.body.clientHeight) ) ), // Minimum velocity the gesture must be moving when the gesture ends to be // considered a swipe. velocityThreshold: 5, // Used to calculate the distance threshold to ignore the gestures velocity // and always consider it a swipe. disregardVelocityThreshold: (type, self) => Math.floor(0.5 * (type === ‘x’ ? self.element.clientWidth : self.element.clientHeight)), // Point at which the pointer moved too much to consider it a tap or longpress // gesture. pressThreshold: 8, // If true, swiping in a diagonal direction will fire both a horizontal and a // vertical swipe. // If false, whichever direction the pointer moved more will be the only swipe // fired. diagonalSwipes: false, // The degree limit to consider a swipe when diagonalSwipes is true. diagonalLimit: Math.tan(((45 * 1.5) / 180) * Math.PI), // Listen to mouse events in addition to touch events. (For desktop support.) mouseSupport: true, } const gesture = new TinyGesture($refs.modal, options); gesture.on(‘swipeleft’, () => ); gesture.on(‘swiperight’, () => ); } } x-on:keydown.left=$dispatch(‘modal-navigate-left’) x-on:keydown.right=$dispatch(‘modal-navigate-right’) x-on:keydown.esc=$dispatch(‘modal-esc’) x-init=handleSwipe() x-ref=modal> : Will I need radiators if I have underfloor heating?
Is underfloor more efficient than radiators?
” loading=”lazy”> February 21, 2023 When it comes to heating our homes, there are a number of options available to us. Two of the most popular are underfloor heating and radiators. While both have their pros and cons, underfloor heating is generally considered to be the more efficient option. So, let us tell you why:
- Improved Heat Distribution: Underfloor heating systems distribute heat evenly across the floor, creating a more consistent and comfortable temperature throughout the room. This is in contrast to radiators, which can leave some areas of the room feeling cold and draughty.
- Lower Operating Temperatures: Underfloor heating systems operate at lower temperatures than radiators, which means that they use less energy to achieve the same level of warmth. This also reduces the risk of hot spots, which can be uncomfortable and increase the risk of accidents.
- Increased Thermal Mass: Underfloor heating systems use the mass of the floor to store and distribute heat, which means that they can keep a room warm for longer after the heating has been turned off. This is particularly useful in areas such as bathrooms, where you may only need heat for a short period of time each day.
- Increased Efficiency: Underfloor heating systems are often more efficient than radiators because they don’t rely on convection currents to distribute heat. This means that less energy is lost to the atmosphere, which results in lower heating bills.
- Better Aesthetics: Finally, underfloor heating systems are hidden from view, which means that they don’t take up valuable wall space or detract from the overall look of a room.
Underfloor heating systems offer a number of advantages over radiators, including improved heat distribution, lower operating temperatures, increased thermal mass, increased efficiency, and better aesthetics. While they may be more expensive to install, they offer long-term savings in terms of energy efficiency and lower heating bills.
Why does heating take so long to heat up?
Are you wondering why your house isn’t getting warm enough? Perhaps you’ve only just moved in, and you’re not finding the house (or certain rooms in the house) as comfortable or warm as in your previous home. Or maybe you’ve noticed your radiators seem less effective than they used to be, and your home just isn’t getting as warm anymore. Here are a few reasons why
If your radiators are not getting hot enough it could be that they are full of sludge, the older your central heating system is, the more likely it is you have sludge in your radiators A good way to tell this is by seeing if they’re only warm at the top, this would mean that the radiators are only working at half power, which will mean that your house is not getting as warm as it could do. Blocked radiators make your bills higher, as your heating has to work harder to warm your home. Sludge can also damage your boiler, heat pump and valves. If you think you have sludge blocking your radiators, get a Gas Safe registered engineer to have a look. If you need a power flush, the engineer will connect a machine to your system. This will push a powerful, low pressure flow of liquid through your system. This dislodges sludge and rust, removing it from your radiators and boiler. It can take several hours to flush out your radiator system. It can take even longer if you have a larger system or there’s a lot of sludge. Your central heating system will contain fresh, clean water after the power flush. The engineer will probably add an inhibitor solution. This liquid chemical will stop sludge building up again. Your boiler could be undersized and not have the capacity to heat your home, this is quite a common thing especially in newer homes. Another common issue is that there could be a problem with your boiler’s thermostat, or room thermostat. It could be opening or closing too early, and simply not detecting the correct temperature it needs to be. You could also have a faulty pump or motorised valve, which is only opening partially. Or, although your pump looks like it’s working, it’s not pumping at the correct speed, therefore the heat is not getting to your radiators. Just like sludge can block up radiators, it can also block or restrict your pipework. If sludge is getting into your manifolds or valves, the flow of hot water to your radiators will be restricted, by adding an inhibitor this could help decrease the amount of sludge.
If you’re still not sure what could be causing the problem, please get in touch and we can send out a specialised Heating Engineer. : Are you wondering why your house isn’t getting warm enough?
Why is my electric underfloor heating so slow?
Home / Programming / Heating Mats – DWM The length of time it takes to heat up your floor depends on a lot of factors, but a classic installation over ¾” plywood with NADWM mats would take about 30 minutes to heat from 60F to 80F. If you are using your floor heating system for the first time you may notice slower-than-usual heating times.
If you feel your system is not heating, Warmup recommends confirming the programming. Be sure that you are targeting a temperature higher than the current floor temperature. On the large temperature format setting, a triangle between *F/C and the words floor/air to the right of the large temperature acts as a heating indicator.
When the triangle is present (must be on large temperature format) power is being sent through the thermostat. If the heating indicator is on for several hours with no temperature change you may be experiencing heat loss to the subfloor or issues with your cables.
How do I get more heat from underfloor heating?
FLOOR INSULATION INCREASES HEAT OUTPUT – The heat output to the floor surface can be significantly increased by using insulation, such as Warmup insulation boards, under the heating. This may be immediately below the heating units, pipes or below the screed or medium that the heating is embedded within. Warmup insulation boards come in a range of thickness offering different levels of insulation. If you don’t want to change the floor finish or can’t change the size of the heated floor area, increasing overall insulation is a good way to reduce heat loss and achieve a lower heat output requirement.